05-11-2011 03:15 PM
I have had pretty good results selling my pens, I just started turning in Feb. and am addicted. I'm wondering what some of your finishing techniques are, I get great results with my method using CA glue but it takes me as long to finish my pens as it does to turn them. I sand up to 600 grit and sand with the grain in between grits to remove the scratches. Then I clean the blanks with some mineral spirits while the lathe runs and add some BLO then follow with about 6 coats of CA.
I'm looking to speed up my process and eliminate some elbow grease if it can happen and still get good results. Thanks.
05-11-2011 08:17 PM
I have done a couple hundred or so. It is my experience that finishing is by far the longest step. I usually start at 220 and go to 600. Sometimes I hit the blank with 4 aught steel wool also. I use the CA/BLO that William Young demonstrates here.
I have been skipping the BLO coat on the blank before I add CA. I just add the tiny drop to my applicator.
Have you done any acrylic or polyester resin? Finishing that is the bomb! Sand to 600, micromesh to 12,000, couple buffs with plastic polish, and assemble.
05-11-2011 10:14 PM
I used to use CA, but the cost and time spent on it was just getting rediculous. I had a spray can of clear coat automotive spray paint and tried it on a pen that was sanded to 320 grit. After just two quick coats the pen was almost completed. I then used Turtle wax scratch remover and buffed the pen to a near glass like shine. Total time for the finish was around 15 to 25 minutes or so.
05-12-2011 06:03 AM
I had a spray can of clear coat automotive spray paint and tried it on a pen that was sanded to 320 grit.
That is a interesting finish schedule. How is it holding up so far? If the finish holds up over time you may revolutionize the pen turning world!
05-13-2011 09:12 PM - edited 05-13-2011 09:13 PM
I may be doing alright with the CA glue then because I don't spend 25 minutes, I probably spend 10 minutes per finished pen and I have seen a few I sold and they are still holding the finish really well. I also use William Young's technique. The sanding is what really takes up my time it seems.
05-13-2011 10:41 PM
Eric if you can get the turning as very smooth as you can , the sanding should not involve so much time.
I get my turnings smoother using a flat skew. It really can get the sanding time quite short. It takes a bit of experience and practice. Make up a few practice blanks and get used to that skew. It is one of the favorite tool that I use. Look up some videos for skews. Good luck.
05-14-2011 09:22 PM - edited 05-14-2011 09:23 PM
I have been practicing more with my skew lately, trying to get better at it. I don't mind screwing some things up to get better. There is a WOOD video in the library on using a skew chisel that is very helpful. I also only have a couple months experience with my lathe so I feel like I'm doing pretty good.
05-15-2011 06:04 AM
Those finishes are most likely longer lasting than Shellawax but we've had good luck with that stuff. Sand to 400 grit and then burnish with the shavings. a wipe down with DNA to get the dust off, let it dry for about 30 seconds and then 2 or 3 coats of Shellawax. I know of a few pens that are 4 years old and that finish is still good. Now we haven't used that on any of the oily exotics but maple, hickory, walnut, purpleheart, cherry, and some of the commercial stabalized blanks I can vouch for.
05-15-2011 08:04 AM
Thanks Randy, I have some of that shellwax and I have never been able to get the gloss I get with CA and the ones I did are pretty dull now. I may revisit and try your method. I turned a sycamore bowl yesterday and have some incredible figured wood left I plan to use for a pen.