Wood Turning

[fgvanatta]

A variation of the Angel Wing bowl, this one has curved "wings" and I call it a Gull Wing Bowl.  This was turned from a green Mesquite log 8" in dia. and 16" long and inlaid with Turquoise.  The completed bowl is 4" high, 5 1/2" wide, and 11" long.

[TxMoose.]

That's pretty slick!

I'm finally going to ask how does one inlay stone? I understand the brass shaving in epoxy etc. But stone how and then how do you turn it?

TxMoose

[ric47]

I like the shape of that one and the wood color is great. Not real sure about the inlay. I guess there is not enough to make it look right to me. Maybe more in a band around the base or something, but just the few little spot areas you have now doesn't seem to add to the peice to me.

But we all have different ideas of what looks good, if you are happy with it that is what counts the most.

[fgvanatta]

"I'm finally going to ask how does one inlay stone? I understand the brass shaving in epoxy etc. But stone how and then how do you turn it?"

The turquoise is first broken/ground up into small pieces - almost a powder in the case of some of the smaller cracks in this bowl.  This is then poured into the opening until it is just slightly proud of the surface, then flooded with CA glue.  When the glue sets, the turquoise is brought back down even with the surface with a scraper.  I usually sand the piece down to 240 grit before doing any inlaying, then resand with 240 after all the inlay is in place.  Then I go on and finish the bowl as I normally would.

". . .  Not real sure about the inlay. I guess there is not enough to make it look right to me. Maybe more in a band around the base or something, but just the few little spot areas you have now doesn't seem to add to the peice to me.

But we all have different ideas of what looks good, if you are happy with it that is what counts the most."

There is more inlay than is immediately obvious in the pix - most of the radial cracks from the pith are partially inlaid on both the inside and outside of the bowl (15 places on the inside, 25 on the outside, 11 "spots", and 1 "spot" on the bottom.  That said, I much prefer to inlay just enough turquoise to create some highlights.  That's why I didn't fill all the worm holes (the "spots") and about half of the radial cracks are filled with CA glue only.  I have seen a lot of pieces where there is so much inlay that it overpowers the natural grain of the wood, which looks garish to me.

[ric47]

OK, I understand what you are saying about too much. I am just able to go from the pictures and pictures do not always show a good overall representation of the real thing. I like the inlay, but like I said what I see there is not enough to me.

[fgvanatta]

" I like the inlay, but like I said what I see there is not enough to me."

Can't argue with that; it's why they make chocolate and vanilla.  

Anyway, the main point of turning a bowl like this is the curved wings; the inlay is just incidental . . . 

[rxeagle]

Love the form of this bowl. Give us some details on doing this type of form. Would like to try it.

[fgvanatta]

"Love the form of this bowl. Give us some details on doing this type of form. Would like to try it"

This is a variation of a winged bowl, which is basically a bowl made by turning a rectangular blank instead of a square one so that "wings" develop on the long sides of the blank as the bowl is formed.  In this case - as in the so-called Angel Wing Bowl -  a branch/log is turned with the axis of the branch perpendicular to the turning axis of the lathe.  

A good tutorial, with pix: http://www.aroundthewoods.com/wings.shtml

If you have never turned a bowl of this type, I suggest you start with a square edge bowl.  There are a lot of videos and tutorials out there on how to do this.  A good time-lapse demo:  http://lumberjocks.com/gfixler/blog/10565

What is different about turning these bowls is that the gouge is not always in contact with the wood on the outer edges - you end up "cutting air" at these points.  This is a little disconcerting at first.  The main thing is that you have to run the lathe at a slower speed (I cut the bowl above at about 500 rpm), concentrate on what you're doing and take light cuts.  As you move from the square edge bowl to the angel wing type, you will be cutting a lot more "air" and there is a lot more opportunity for disaster if you're not paying attention.  Its also a lot easier to control the gouge on the flat wings of a square edge bowl than the curved "angel" wings. 

I would also suggest that you start with a "miniature" turning first.  For example, the prototype for the gull wing bowl above was made from a small branch only about 1 1/2" in diameter and 4 in. long.  This is where you want to make your mistakes and learn how to handle the gouge when cutting air - if you take too deep a bite on the wings of a 4" branch it's no big deal, but if you do the same on a 16" branch it can cause some real damage.

[johnclucas]

Very well done.   I used to do a lot of Inlay work.  Mostly with Inlace.  customers like it.  Some woodturners object to it because it's not natural.   I have a friend who turns bowls  cut from the endgrain of the log.  He cuts the pith out and fills the space with a contrasting wood.   Woodturners hate it.  It must be that perfectionist thing or something.   He sells every one of them.   

     Of course the same is true with worm holes.  Some customers love that they are they and some don't.  I fill them for user bowls and don't fill them for decorative bowls.    We all have to make our own choices.  If your selling them then the market will make the choice for you.

[fgvanatta]

"If your selling them then the market will make the choice for you."

Excellent point, and one that many turners overlook.  Instead they strive to impress other turners, who probably aren't going to buy too many of their wares.