02-06-2010 07:41 PM
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02-06-2010 08:15 PM
I was under impression that fence is parallel to miter slot, not blade.
The whole fence should be the same.
If you set it up that way then there will be no run-out.
02-06-2010 08:26 PM
I have my tablesaw set up so the miter slot is parallel to the fence and the blade. They should all be parallel to each other if you want accurate cuts. It's time consuming but its worth it. I use a beismeyer fence.
02-06-2010 09:48 PM
Personally I align the miter slot to the blade and the fence to the miter slot. I see no purpose to allow run-out. Especially if you have a gauge that measures to the thousandths. I use a combination square rule. I quess for all I know I do have .004 of run out.
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02-07-2010 12:51 AM
Here's a good article on how to set up a table saw.
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02-07-2010 04:12 AM
Hi Paul, I have mine set parallel to the blade so that when the needs arises I can move my fence to the left of the blade with no worries. That said, to answer your question the clearance is from the front of the blade to the back end of the fence. It is good on Cherry to eliminate burning.
02-07-2010 07:41 AM
I am of the align everything with no toe out camp. I have a right tilt saw and bevel rip on the left. If you toe out on the fence if you move to the left you will now have toe in. Not a good situation.
02-07-2010 08:23 AM
Like the others said if you go for the toe out it is over the full length of the fence. The other thing to check is if the surface of the fence is even over it's length. If it has the plastic face it may vary a little which can be corrected by shimming. The case for setting it up with no toe out is very good as you may not be remember this if you move the fence to the other side. The blade should be parallel to the miter slot, both at 90 and 45 degrees. Roly