Posts: 444
Registered: ‎12-18-2009

Scroll saw blades???

What scroll saw blades do you guys like to use?  Also is there a rule of thumb for picking out what blade to use for a given application?  I have a nice DeWalt scroll saw I want to start using but the blade I have don't seem to be the right ones.  I'm cutting in red oak and every now and then the blade grabs the wood and makes it bounce on table. I have the foot/blade gaurd is down lightly resting on the wood.   It seems to happen more when the cut is exiting the piece wood then when the cut is in the middle of the piece.  Not too enjoyable if you ask me.  

Veteran Advisor
Posts: 2,454
Registered: ‎10-23-2009

Re: Scroll saw blades???

[ Edited ]


   beg, borrow, buy, or steal Patrick Spielman 's Scrollsaw Handbook. it is the most comprehensive SS book i've ever read. check your library. now your questions. no one blade will do every thing. thin material (1/8" - 5/16") uses universal generic no.(UNG) 2.0 to no. 5. 28 teeth per inch. (TPI)to 14 TPI. thicker material require fewer TPI. general use blades vary from UNG 6 to 12, 12 TPI to 9.5 TPI. blade widths and thicknesses also vary with the sizes. strokes per minute (SPM) will also effect the way blades cut and feel. on top of all that are the blade configurations; skip tooth, double skip tooth, crown, universal, and spirals. strokes per minute(SPM) will affect the way the saw feels as well as the lineal speed that the saw cuts. harder woods will cut slower than softwoods. thicker woods will cut slower than thinner woods.

buy some blades, get the book, cut some wood. you are probably pushing into the blade too hard not giving the saw time to cut. slow down.  

Whittier CA
Apprentice Contributor
Posts: 15
Registered: ‎09-05-2010

Re: Scroll saw blades???

Hi Tarner,


GrandpaBear is right.  FInd a copy of Spielman's book.  You can find descent copies online for a very reasonable price.  Patrick was a great teacher and author who knew his stuff.  Other resourses for learning how to scroll better are two magazines specializing in scroll work.  One is Scrollsaw Workshop and the other is Scrollsaw Woodworking and Crafts.  Both are great at offering new patterns and instruction for scrolling.


The wood jumping is most often due to the blade catching on the up stroke and not holding the wood down against the table tightly.  One of the first things most scrollers I know do to their new saw is get rid of the foot that comes with the saw.  A lot of times it just gets in the way of what you are cutting and doesn't teach a person the proper way to hold your project against the table.  If you have the foot tight enough against the project to prevent it from jumping you won't be able to spin it properly to make your cuts.  I also find that going slower can cause projects to catch more than cutting at faster speeds.  That still comes back to the pressure of which you are holding the project against the table.


Regarding what type of blades, I have tried many of the blades that are out there.  Flying Dutchman blades from Mike's Workshop seem to work best for me.  You can find his number in the magazines listed above or by doing a websearch for Flying Dutchman Scroll saw blades.  Let Mike know what you are cutting and he will help get you the right blade for the project.


Like GrandpaBear said there are many types of blades available and what you are cutting can dictate which blade to use.  For the most part I use the No. 5 reverse tooth blade.  It has 5 teeth facing up on the bottom to give a clean cut on the bottom of your project.  Sprial blades are nice if you are doing a big project that isn't easy to spin.  These have the teeth going all around the blade so they cut in all directions.  You don't usually get as clean of a cut with these though.


Hope this helps.

Apprentice Contributor
Posts: 6
Registered: ‎09-27-2010

Re: Scroll saw blades???

I have the same saw and have used Flying Dutchman blades from for over 20 years. The general rule is you should have at least 3 saw teeth in the wood at all times, so the thinner the wood the more teeth. I would avoid spiral blades until you get some experience. Oak is kind of grabby because it has soft and hard coarse grain. Try using 3/4 " pine to start, and work your way up through the hardwoods. A local club is usually a great source.