Tools and Tool Buying

[Rand Lowery]

I just read the forum on routers for router tables. I'm in the process of making my own. After researching this subject I have decided to go with the PC 7518, Woodpeckers PRL and a Woodpecker 24x 32 table top. Is there anything I'm missing in this decision? When I owned my welding business, I found that when I bought the best I was never sorry, but when I spent money on second best, I always spent my money twice. Since this is going to be a very expensive unit I definitly want the best. Also I have to mount everthing at desk height as (compliments of our VA) I am in a wheelchair and can't operate things at normal heights. Does any one see a problem with this idea?

[MSWOODcraft]

Hey, Rand.  Welcome to the group.     It sounds like you're already getting a lot of good info.    As for ideas, YUP, a few spring to mind:

Featherboards.   Both lateral as well as vertical hold downs will be good to have.   In some cases they're all that stand between you and failure.    So give a good look at either shop made ones or purchasing a decent set.

And the other concepts is push blocks.   The paddle type, as seen used on jointers, will work fine.   

If you plan to do a lot of cope and stick work then a coping sled may be in order.  

Lastly:  get to know when and why to use a starting pin.   It's absurdly simple in operation and saves a lot in terms of working safely.

BEST with it!!

[Rand Lowery]

Thanx, Matt. I have an assortment of push blocks, feather boards and I made a coping sled from one of my mags. As you have proably guessed, I am new to wood working. I've been a welder/fitter since I was 19 and owned my my own business since 1977. I can attest to a huge difference in wood and metal working. (My wife calls my wood shop a WOOD TORTURE CHAMBER) At leat I have plenty of wood for the grand kids to have wieney roasts. I"ve just had an idea that trying to set under the table, I just might have a clearance problem with getting in the way of a router hanging there. Any input on this?

[JL North GA · Accepted solution]

There isn't anything wrong with mounting the router table to a height that would be more ergonomically friendly to you.

How about a cantilevered top?  Make the sides in sort of a "Z" pattern - you can even put the sides out further than the 32" of the top so you can get in closer.  Another thought - if you face the "Z" away from you so that the point of the "Z" is towards you, you could place a board on the upper diagonal to help guide the chips away from you.  You could then have a solid back with a 4" port at the bottom and hook that up to a DC system.

[grandpabear]

   a little late for your solution but here is my take. i do most of my routing in a wheel chair, not confined but needed. a wider table allows the chair to get closer. mine is 48" and router bit center is 9" from the front. i can do about 90-95% of my routing with this configuration. i can turn the table for big stuff with center point of 27"

[Rand Lowery]

I appreciate all your suggestions. I never thought about doing the flip/flop with the table. I will be sure to incorporate that for sure. Will I need to install a mitre track on the short side as well?

[weighn]

I'd also add a large paddle on/off switch.

Good working

Wayne-Yorba Linda, CA

[JL North GA]

Having another miter track never hurt - just make sure you sink it below the surface of the table.

There are many times that I remove the fence from my table and do a table top with a router bit with a bearing guide.   I figure I can press down and hold a table top to the surface of my router table a bit easier than I can support a router with more than half hanging out in mid air.  I know that I can fasten a block to the base plate of my router, but I don't really like doing it that way.  Of course if you are doing LARGE table tops, you don't want to use your router table.

[Rand Lowery]

I sure appreciate all your suggestions! I'm going to print them to refer to on this project. Ordered the PC 7518 today. Momma even let me use her Capitol One. (Idon't have one in my pocket) Just missed a $265.00 one in a damaged box. (While I was on my hands and knees begging for her card some jerk beat me to it.) Now on to the lift. I'm thinking of getting the Woodpecker PRL V2. Is this overkill or should I be checking out another one? I could use a little guidance from those of you with experience with these. Again Thanx to all of you for your help.

[firejohn]

Go for the PRL V.2 lift.  I don't have it, but after looking at it, I can only dream.  I do have their PlungerLift insert for my old Freud FT2000 and think it's great.  Get the set of insert rings, too.  I got the aluminum set for mine and have used almost all of them.  I like that micro-adjust wheel.  With mine, I have to use the crank.  If I've got the fence set, I can't work the crank easily (too short).  I invested in a hex bit and a long ratchet extension to overcome that, though.