12-17-2011 06:40 AM
A problem you may run into using a 20# cylinder.
Depending on how cold it is where you are, or if it's especially humid,you may run into a phenomenon known in the L.P. industry as 'vaporing out".
This occurs when an appliance is using vapor pressure faster than the supplying cylinder can produce it.
The most recognizable side effect of this is a frosty cylinder.
When it happens, the appliance stops firing or has difficulty, you shut it down and a little while later it works again, for a while. It gets worse as the cylinder gets emptier.
Vapor production within a cylinder or tank is a function of the liquid contents touching the inside walls of the cylinder, the "wetted surface". the more liquid, the more wetted surface = higher vaporization rate.
Consider using at a minimum a 100# (23.5 gallon) cylinder, the usually silver one that is about 4 1/2 ft tall and 12-14" in diameter.
A better and more cost effective solution would be a 420# (120 gal) cylinderfrom a propane company. These are large enough that you wont run into the vaporing out issues in all but the coldest weather. ( you probably wouldnt want to be out there then anyway.)
These are about 5 ft tall and 30 " in diameter. they are also filled onsite from a tanker truck and the gas is usually sold in bulk at a reduced price compared to 20-100# cylinders. Pricing rates vary from company to company so ask questions.
Sorry if i sound like an advertisment for propane, I work as a delivery driver and service technician in northern MN.
01-09-2013 01:55 PM
01-10-2013 03:47 AM
I use a screw-on unit on top of a large propane tank. Since I have 20" roof, and the fact that I don't run it for an extended time, I have had no issues. You need more input on this. Could you call your local building and codes to find out what they say. They have been very helpful to me over the years. They are working for your safety.
01-10-2013 03:07 PM
I understand where you're coming from, but I've been using for years a kerosene heater that just heats the area above it and takes a loooong time to bring temps up in the rest of the room. CO detectors present and this is not the most air tight space. Thanks for the input, it's appreciated.
01-13-2013 02:04 AM
When I built my shop that is attached to my house's garage I insulated the walls & the ceiling. Then I put in a 220VAC electric heater in the ceiling. If I put the stat up to position 9 it's really toasty in there. Now, my shop's not that big, it's just 12 x 25 but it serves me ok. I can't go the kerosene way, I got a "THING" about kerosene. When I was a young pup we use to have a cabin up in the sticks. I was the second child & I got to sleep on the top bunk. Mom & Dad had a kerosene stove & furnace. I can remember laying up on that bunk nice & toasty & not being able to breath to a hoot. When I went into the USAF I had a hard time for awhile working around JP-4. It's kerosene, too. I just can't go the fire for heat routine in a wood shop. I've seen dust explosions & their nothing to laugh about.
01-18-2013 06:29 AM
When you say you do not want it to cost too much are you implying to install, operate, or both?
Quartz style electric space heaters are one of the cheapest to purchase, but are fairly expensive to operate.
Propane portable heaters are not too expensive. I was cleaning up a 30' x 50' x 16' high workshop last winter and the only heat I had was from two of these attached to two grill type propane tanks. They did not make that large cavernous space warm, but they definitely took the chill out of the air! In a garage these should serve you better.
Another thing you can do to creates comfort is to lay down electric radiant floor pads like this and cover the shop floor with mats. This serves two purposes. The radiant pads create some heat that will rise up to meet you, and the mats make the floor more comfortable to stand on. A more expensive option but speaking from experience it is a lot more comfortable after it warms up.
"If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?" Ira Zolper, 1970
01-18-2013 12:53 PM
I'm looking for efficiency more so than cost up front. If it costs a few bucks more but costs less to operate, so much the better. Radiant floor heat would not be feasible in my shop and you mentioned a 30' X 50' work shop. I have a pole barn that big with 16' ceiling and I tried to heat it with a very good size wood furnace. Talk about inefficiency !!
Thanks for your input, it is appreciated.
01-18-2013 03:11 PM
water heater powered radiant floor heat...
comfy, comfy and more comfy...
more up front and very very good in the long run....
this would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
if only new layers hadn't been added....