Blog #10
Making a Jump-A-Peg Game
You have gone over the safety rules for using the drill press. Your students know to wear safety glasses. Long hair must be tied back. There must be no loose clothing, jewelry or anything else that might get caught in the revolving chuck.
Each child has learned to set the spindle speed, knows how to install a bit in the chuck properly and can set the depth the bit will drill.
Now it’s time to get started making a project. The Jump-A-Peg game has been popular with my students and makes an excellent first project to use with the drill press. By drilling 33 holes, students become familiar with the operation of the drill press.
What you should expect teaching first-timers about the drill press:
There are three things first-timers can only learn by actually operating the drill press. The first is how much finger pressure is needed to hold the game board down on the table. If it isn’t held securely enough the drill bit can dig in and lift it off the drill press table. This can result in a misshaped hole and might even result in a game board that spins out of control. Caution the kids about this. If it should happen, warn them to immediately turn the drill press off and let it come to a stop. Never try to grab the spinning board. If it happens to a student once, he or she will immediately and definitely learn how securely the wood must be held. The second, and far less dramatic thing is learning how fast to lower the spindle. Lowering it too fast leaves a rough hole. Lowering it too slow wastes time and over-heats the drill bit. The final thing is to raise the feed lever once the hole has been drilled. Many of my students seem to feel that they should hold the feed lever down for an extended period of time and just let the bit spin and spin. These three things are learned quickly once students have a chance to get the “hands-on” practice using the drill press.
Have the following materials and tools on hand:
(I prepare the game board “blanks” in advance. I use my table saw to pre-cut pine boards to 4-1/2” x 4-1/2” and I cut 1/4” chamfers around the top edges.)
1.) The pre-cut game board blanks
2.) Pencil
3.) Scissors
4.) Drilling pattern sheets
5.) 7/32” twist bit
6.) Sandpaper
7.) Sanding block
8.) Scratch awl
9.) *Pegs – 3/16” diameter x 1” long
*Although game pegs can be cut from 3/16” dowel rod they are a bit dangerous to cut. It is hard to make the same length, and it is difficult to cut them without splintering the ends. It is much easier to purchase commercially made pegs. Email me if you would like a mail order source.
Prepare the game board for drilling
Your instructions to your students are as follows:
1.) Write your name on the bottom of your game board.
2.) With scissors, cut the drilling pattern from the paper.
3.) Tape the pattern to the top of your game board.
4.) Using a scratch awl, mark each of the holes to be drilled in your wood. The scratch awl has a scarp point, but you still need to push it firmly into the wood. Hard areas of the wood known as grain lines will often cause the point of the scratch awl to wander off to one side. Usually by tilting the scratch awl the opposite direction and pushing against the hard areas you can keep the mark centered.
5.) Remove the paper pattern and the tape and discard them.
Set up the drill press
6.) Unplug the drill press.
7.) Install a 7/32” drill bit in the drill press chuck.
8.) Set the drill press speed between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM.
9.) Set the drill press to drill a 5/8” deep hole.
10. Ask your teacher to check your drill press set-up.
11.) With your teacher present, drill the first hole in your game board. Hold the game board firmly with your right hand. Pull the feed handle down at a medium speed and continue drilling down until the feed handle stops. Then immediately raise the handle and move your game board into a new position to drill the next hole. Continue in this way until you have drilled all 33 holes.
12.) With course grit sandpaper and a sanding block, sand the game board smooth. Finish sand with fine sandpaper.
13.) Place 32 pegs in the game board filling every hole except the center hole.
Play the game to see if you can solve it
The game is played as follows: Jump one peg over a peg next to it and into a vacant hole. Remove the peg you jumped. Then jump another peg in the same manner. Continue jumping and removing pegs until you can’t jump any more. Now count how many pegs you have left on your board.
Score yourself as follows:
One peg left in the center hole – Extreme expert
One peg left in any other hole – Expert
2 or 3 pegs left in the board – Very good job
4 or 5 pegs left on the board – Average player
6 or more pegs left on the board – You might want to practice some more.
There are probably many different ways to solve this puzzle leaving only one peg left in the center hole. You can impress your friends if you come up with your own solution.
Whether you come up with your own way to solve the puzzle or use the solution below, you must demonstrate that you can solve the puzzle.
It is not necessary to commit any solution to memory.
Solution to the puzzle which will result in only peg left in the center hole
The numbers below represent the holes on your game board. Follow the instructions underneath and you will be able to complete the puzzle.
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27
28 29 30
31 32 33
1. Jump peg 5 over peg 10 and into hole 17. Remove peg 10. Continue jumping and removing the jumped pegs as follows:
2. 12 to 10
3. 3 to 11
4. 18 to 6
5. 30 to 18
6. 27 to 25
7. 24 to 26
8. 13 to 27 to 25
9. 9 to 11
10. 7 to 9
11. 22 to 24 to 26 to 12 to 10 to 8
12. 31 to 23
13. 16 to 28
14. 33 to 31 to 23
15. 21 to 7 to 9
16. 1 to 3 to 11 to 25
17. 4 to 16 to 28 to 30 to 18 to 16
18. 15 to 17
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #9
Adjusting the drill press to drill a given depth
There are two ways to adjust the drill depth on most drill presses. One is to use the depth gauge and the other is to simply raise or lower the drill press table.
Setting drill bit depth by adjusting the depth gauge
The depth gauge has two “Jam Nuts.” These nuts are tightened or “jammed” together using two wrenches. The purpose for jamming the nuts together is so they will not vibrate loose.
Adjust the depth gauge as follows:
1.) Using two wrenches, loosen the jam nuts.
2.) With the drill bit tightened in the chuck, lower the feed handle to bring the bit down to the desired depth.
3.) Spin the jam nuts to the jam nut stop.
4.) Re-tighten the jam nuts using two wrenches.
Setting drill bit depth by adjusting the height of the drill press table
1.) Hold the table with one hand and loosen the table lock with the other hand. The reason to hold the table with one hand is to prevent it from sliding all the way down the column. (It is not necessary to hold the table if it is equipped with a crank handle and rack running along the column. The reason is that the gear will prevent the table from dropping down. You will still need to loosen the table lock however.)
2.) With the drill bit tightened in the chuck, rotate the feed handle to bring the down as far as it will go. Then raise or lower the drill press table to the height needed so that the drill bit will drill as deep into the wood as needed (5/8”).
Practice adjusting the drill press to drill to a given depth
1.) Install a 7/32” twist bit in the drill press chuck. (This is the diameter bit used to make the Jump-A-Peg game in my next blog.)
2.) Adjust the drill press so the drill bit will drill down 5/8” into the wood. (This is the depth you will be drilling for the Jump-A-Peg game.) It is easiest to first make a mark on the edge of a 3/4” board that is 5/8” down from the top surface. Use this line as a guide for setting the depth.
3.) Demonstrate to your teacher how to set the depth gauge so the drill bit drill 5/8” down into the wood.
4.) Demonstrate to your teacher how to set the table height so the drill will stop after it drills down 5/8” into the wood.
The goal of this blog and the two before (blogs 7, 8, & 9) is to provide each child with the knowledge to set the drill press without additional help from their parent or teacher. That is not to say that they should be permitted to adjust the drill press or operate it without permission. The goal is for them to know how to use the drill press correctly.
The projects children will be making in future blogs will require that they can make the necessary adjustments (install bits, adjust spindle speed and adjust drill depth).
In my next blog. We will begin making the Jump-A-Peg game.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #8
Setting Drill Press Spindle Speed
Here is a practical exercise you can use to teach your children how to set the spindle speed of your drill press. Print it out and work with your child step by step. You can demonstrate the procedure first, but it is important that each child actually gets involved in the “doingness” of the exercise. That is, actually doing all the steps themselves.
Keep these directions so your child can refer back to them as many times as needed.
Practical: Changing Drill Press Speed
The “spindle speed” of the drill press refers to how fast the drill bit spins. Speed is measured by the number of revolutions per minute (RPM) The word “spindle” comes from the word “spin.” The spindle is a steel shaft with pulleys on top. The pulleys are turned by a belt which is connected to the motor. The motor always spins at the same speed, but you can move the belt on the pulleys to change the speed of the spindle.
Demonstrate how to Change the Spindle Speed in the Drill Press
Small drill bits work best at faster speeds. Large bits work best at slower speeds. Here’s how to adjust the spindle speed.
1. Unplug the drill press power cord from the wall receptacle.
2. Raise the hinged top cover by lifting on the knob.
3. With your fingers, loosen the locking wing bolt by turning it counterclockwise two or three complete turns.
4. Move the motor to bring the motor pulley closer to the spindle.
5. Look at the RPM chart to see which pulleys will produce a speed close to the recommended RPM. The second column shows that the spindle speed will be 2,300 RPM if the belt is placed on the second set of pulleys from the top.
6. Move the belt to the correct set of pulleys. Do this by rotating the pulleys with your hands as you pull up or down on the belt. Important: Start by moving the belt from a larger pulley to a smaller pulley. Caution - Pay attention to where you put your fingers to avoid getting them pinched between the belt and a pulley.
7. Move the belt to the correct position on both pulleys. In the photo, the belt has been moved from the top set of pulleys down to the next lower set of pulleys.
8. Move the motor back to tighten the belt.
9. Tighten the belt tension lock and then close the cover.
10. Plug the drill press power cord into the wall receptacle.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #7
Using the Drill Press - Changing a Drill Bit
Besides a knowledge of safe practices when using the drill press, children should know: 1.) how to install a bit in the drill press chuck, 2.) how to set the spindle speed, and 3.) how to set the drilling depth.
Here is a practical exercise you can use to teach your children how to install a bit in the chuck. Print it out and work with your child step by step. You can demonstrate the procedure first, but it is important that each child actually gets involved in the "doingness" of the exercise. Getting the "hands-on" experience is an important component of the learning process.
Keep these directions so your child can refer back to them as many times as needed. Remember that a machine can be a challenge for many kids to master. I have watched my best students loosen a chuck only to have the drill bit drop out and land on the metal table. Just because they read "Turn the chuck key counterclockwise until the chuck just starts to loosen," and then "Hold the bit with one hand as you continue to turn the chuck key," it doesn't mean they will never loosen the chuck only to have the drill bit drop out. The good thing is that once they do so, you can **bleep** your head, squint your eyes and say in a kind and sincere voice, "Oh, ouch! Did you dull its poor little tip?" It is after something like this happens that they will remember to watch that the bit does not drop the next time they remove it.
After they have practiced the steps to installing a bit, have them reverse these same steps to remove the bit.
Demonstrate How to Install a Bit in the Drill Press:
You must know how to properly install a bit in the drill press.
Demonstrate how to install and remove a twist bit following each step below in the exact order given.
1. Unplug the drill press power cord from the wall receptacle.
2. Hold a twist bit in one hand, slip the bit about 1" into the chuck, and with the fingers of your other hand, rotate the drill press chuck until the three jaws in the chuck tighten just enough so the bit won't fall out. The drill bit must be centered between all three jaws. Use your hand to turn the chuck a full turn while you watch the drill bit to be sure it is straight up and down.
4. Re-plug the power cord into the wall receptacle.
1. Unplug the drill press power cord from the wall receptacle.
2. Put the chuck key into the drill press chuck so that the gear teeth mesh together. Turn the chuck key in a counterclockwise direction. You can use both hands to turn the chuck key, but as soon as you feel the chuck begin to loosen, let go with one hand and hold the bit so it doesn¹t drop out.
3. With the bit held in one hand, continue rotating the chuck key counterclockwise with the other hand until the bit slides out from the jaws of the chuck.
Here are three things to be careful of:
A. Drill bits get hot from use. Let the drill bit cool down before touching it.
B. Drill bits are sharp. Avoid touching the sharp point.
C. Don¹t let the drill drop on the floor or that could dull the point.
4. Replace the bit in its proper container. Don't just set the bit on the drill press table or it could roll off onto the floor.
After completing this exercise several times your children (or students) will feel confidence that they have mastered the first step of learning to use the drill press.
The next steps will include changing speed and setting drilling depth.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #6
The first power tool I teach my students to use is the drill press. I purchased a Tool Shop drill press at a home center that was sale priced for around $60.00. Later I acquired several of the Grizzly "5 Speed Baby Drill Presses" (Model #G7942). These drill presses list for $95.00. I want to be clear that I am not recommending any specific brand f drill presses. And I am not saying anyone needs to purchase a small drill press just to teach children. In fact, if you already have a drill press by all means use it. But if you don't already have a drill press and need to purchase one anyway, I can say that I have had excellent luck with these inexpensive machines. In fact, several advantages of using the small drill presses include:
1.) They are not as intimidating to children as a very large or a very old drill press might be.
2.) They have held up well, even under the heavy use my students give them.
3.) Because I expect my students to "master" the drill press (i.e. learn how to change bits, set spindle speeds and adjust drilling depth) I have found these smaller drill presses to be an appropriate size. They are easy for them to use.
4.) They are inexpensive to purchase.
Getting started
I have each student first learn the parts of the drill press. There are two important reasons for this. First, by learning the names of the parts they become familiar and comfortable with the machine. Second, they need to know the names of the parts in order to following the step by step instructions for setting up the machine with the correct size bit, adjusting the spindle speed, etc.
The confronting drill - Learning to confront the drill press and learn its parts.
Note: The term "drill" used here refers to the process of training or teaching by the continued repetition of an exercise.
This drill is done with the student and a coach. The coach can be another student or the parent or teacher. It is done exactly as follows:
Position: The student and coach stand in front of the drill press. The drill press is unplugged. It is best if no other students are in the near vicinity.
Materials: The coach has a sheet of paper that shows the names of the parts of the drill press.
Commands: The coach starts the drill by saying in a clear and firm voice "Start of drill." The coach selects one of the parts of the drill press, points to it and says the name. For example if the coach points to the on/off switch he would say "This is the on/off switch." The coach would then say to the student "Point to the on/off switch." The student would point to the on/off switch. If the student pointed correctly, the coach would acknowledge by saying: "Thank you," "good," "okay," "excellent," "all right," or other similar acknowledgement. (The coach should vary the acknowledgements.)
After the coach has gone through each part with the student he then changes the commands slightly by telling the student to point to the part he names. For example "Point to the on/off switch." He acknowledges as above and if missed says "flunk" and the coach again shows the student where the part is.
After the student can point to each part of the drill press correctly, the coach changes the command once again, this time saying "What is the name of this part?" The student must name the part the coach points to. The coach acknowledges in the same way as above, and if missed says "flunk" and tells the student the name of the part.
This drill is passed when the student knows the name of every part of the drill press and can name the part when the coach points to it.
I have found that the kids enjoy doing this drill. They like being the coach and they like being the student. But mostly, they feel empowered when they master the names of all the parts.
The word "confront" as I have used it here simply means just to "be in front of someone or something comfortably." This drill helps the child confront what is likely an unfamiliar machine. Learning the names of the parts is a gradient approach to learning how to use the drill press.
The next step on the learning gradient is to actually use the drill press to drill holes. To do this I have the kids make a jump-a-peg game. More on this project next time.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #5
Learning to nail - Making a name plaque
The best way for kids, or anyone for that matter, to learn the skill of driving a nail is to actually do lots of "nail driving." Making this name plate project provides lots and lots of practice driving nails.
Tools and Materials:
Hammer - 8 oz to 12 oz.
Wire Nails - 5/8" long x 18 gauge
Pre-cut piece of pine of suitable size
Paper preprinted with 1-3/4" high letters
Transfer paper
Pencil
Scissors
Clear tape
Lumber:
Pine 3/4" thick by 3" wide is ideal for this project. The length will vary depending on the number of letters in the child's name. Select a piece of wood with grain that is as close to perpendicular with the face as possible. Boards cut from close to the center of the tree will have curved annular rings. These rings, being harder that the rest of the wood, make it difficult for a beginner to drive nails straight. Pine boards can range from light weight to heavy weight. It is generally easier the drive nails into lighter weight pine.
Prepare a name plaque the appropriate length for the length for the number of letters in th e child's name. Here is a rough guide for cutting the boards to length: For names with four letters, cut the board 6" long. For each additional letter, add 1-1/4", so a name with five letters would be 7-1/4" long, a name with six letters would be 8-1/2" long, etc. But keep in mind that this is a rough guide. You will have to make adjustments for names with more narrow letters or names with more wide letters.
Nails:
Important! - Use 5/8" long x 18 gauge wire nails only! Wire nails (as opposed to wire brads) are preferred because they have a large head. Nails shorter than 5/8" are too difficult for students to hold. Longer nails will go all the way through the wood. An 18 gauge wire nail is very thin. I recommend these thin nails because they won't split the wood as could happen with thicker nails. Note that 5/8" x #18 wire nails may not be readily available at all hardware stores, but can be ordered via mail order. (If you have difficulty finding them email me for a mail order source.) One 2 ounce package contains approximately 360 nails. You will need an average of 40 to 50 nails per letter (not per name). Some nails will get lost, and certainly some will bend over and have to be pulled out and thrown away. It is best to figure one 2 ounce package of nails per student. If you have from four to eight students it is more economical to order a one pound box of wire nails.
Before getting started:
It is important to review safety rules with all students before starting. The two rules I emphasize prior to making these plaques are:
1.) Wear safety goggles while nailing. Nails can shoot sideways on occasion.
2.) Make sure to pick up any nails that fall on the floor. Stepping on a nail can damage a wood or tile floor. Get in the habit of picking up any nail that drops on the floor. Keeping a tidy and safe work environment is the sign of a good craftsman.
It is best to provide students with a printed sheet of letter patterns to transfer to their wood. If you would like to use the letter sheets I have developed just let me know via email and I will send you an attachment that you can print out. Using a scissors, have them cut out the letters of their name and tape them to their wood. The hardest thing for students will be spacing the individual letter patterns and taping them onto the plaque evenly. This should be one area you monitor closely as most students will need help. Tape only the bottom of each letter pattern to the wood. That way you will be able to slide the graphite transfer paper under the letter patterns from the top. Have students trace each letter being sure to check that the image is dark enough to see on the wood. Then remove the transfer paper and patterns.
Graphite paper is preferred over the old fashioned carbon paper. The reason is that graphite smudges can be easily removed from wood with a pencil eraser. I discourage using carbon paper because it is made with a highly concentrated ink which smudges easily and which is extremely difficult to clean from the surface of the wood.
Driving the nails:
Make sure every student has their own hammer. Use only 8 ounce to 13 ounce hammers. The most common hammers are the 16 ounce hammers. A 16 ounce hammer is too heavy and too large for younger students to easily use.
Show how to hold the hammer at the end of the handle. The tendency for many first timers is to choke the hammer - hold it too close to the head. Demonstrate how to swing your arm when you drive a nail. The face of the hammer should come down square on the nail head. Emphasize the importance of stopping immediately if the nail begins to bend. Show students how to use the claw to pull out a bent nail. Always discard any bend nail and replace with a new one.
Demonstrate how to hold the nail between the thumb and forefinger. Gently tap the head of the nail with the hammer until the nail will stand up on its own. Tell students to quit pounding when the nail is even with the surface of the wood. I tell them that we don't want any "elephant tracks" on the surface of the wood.
Students will sometimes hit their fingers with the hammer. It is all part of the learning how to use the hammer. I have not experienced any significant problems (injuries) with kids as young as 9 years old making this project.
Completing the name plaque project:
Continue pounding nails until all the letters are complete.
This project takes a fair amount of time and effort to complete. In my experience, the kids loved making these plaques and felt a valuable sense of accomplishment. Besides that, they become quite skilled at using the hammer.
The experience gained from this exercise prepares kids for the next, more difficult, skill - that of pounding longer nails to join two pieces of wood. More about that in an upcoming blog.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #3
Comments on past posts
My first two blogs resulted in some interesting and welcome reader posts. I appreciate the input and look forward to learning from all who have worked with children.
Two people mentioned the point of that not all children have an interest in woodworking. This is true. The comment "...woodworking either grabs a kid's imagination or he simply tolerates it" is well put. Last school year one of my twelve students told me she decided she didn't like woodworking. She had seemed to enjoy it at first but one day she told me she decided she didn't like woodworking.
Children do have their own unique personalities. We can't expect them all to fall in love with woodworking. But let's at least provide an opportunity to experience this hobby so they can decide for themselves.
On the subject of age, one post mentioned that their 2-1/2 year old loved pounding nails in wood. That got me thinking about my 3 and 4 year old grandsons. Maybe it's time I invited them into my shop! Has anyone else tried working with very young children?
Although the focus of my blog is on working with children ages 8 and older, I am open to sharing reader experiences with children of all ages.
On the subject of safety
Although your young workers will be anxious to get started in the shop, you must let them know what you expect from them before you allow them in the shop.
Begin by defining the word safety. It means: The condition of being safe from undergoing or causing hurt; freedom from harm or danger; being safe and acting in a safe manner. The term "safety" includes having a positive attitude. Students should agree to act responsibly, dress appropriately, respect tools, the work area, the teacher, and the other students. To make sure they understand the meaning of the word, have your students to give examples, in their own words, of the word safety. For example: "Wearing life preservers when you are in a boat is a good safety practice."
Next define the word habit. Habit means: Tendency to act in a certain way; usual way of acting. Doing a thing over and over makes a habit. In the shop, safe practices must be practiced until they become a habit. Ask your students to give examples in their own words. For example: "Looking both ways before crossing the street is a good habit."
With a clear understanding of the words safety and habit students must see how these words relate to them as they work in the shop. Go over each of the following points and stress how they relate to the words safety and habit.
Dress correctly
Never wear loose fitting cloths. These can catch on a vise or worse, in a machine. Long hair should be tied back. Remove any loose jewelry. Safety glasses must be worn at all times when in the shop.
Wear eye protection and keep long hair tied back out
of the way. Never wear loose jewelry or baggy clothes.
Good Shop Housekeeping
Keep the work table and the floor around it clean and neat. Pick up any scraps of wood so no one steps on them and twists an ankle. Put tools away when you have finished using them. Carry tools with the sharp end pointing down and away from you.
Avoid Horseplay
The word horseplay simply means rough play that can result in someone getting hurt. It means clowning around and generally misbehaving. Examples would be wrestling, pushing, shoving or tripping another student. Practical jokes are a form of horseplay.
Ask each child to give you examples of behavior that would be considered horseplay.
for practical jokes in the wood shop.
Report Any Injuries or Broken Tools
Be sure your students let you know if they get hurt. Tell them to report any cuts or abrasions no matter how small. Even getting a sliver should all be reported. That way you can investigate whether the student was using a tool incorrectly or if you need to re-demonstrate any procedures.
Have a first aid kit with the following items:
1) Adhesive bandages in various sizes for minor cuts.
2) A fine tweezers with sterilized needles for splinter removal.
3) Eyewash and cup for eye care and a bottle of re-hydrating eye drops.
4) Alcohol cleansing pads or antiseptic wipes for abrasions.
5) A list of phone numbers of parents if you are working with kids other than your own.
Most Safety Rules are Common Sense.
Acting safely in the shop is usually just a matter of using good judgment and common sense. Consider posting the following list of general safety rules where students can see them. Go over them with your students every couple of class sessions.
If anyone violates a safety rule suspend their right to work until they have made amends. I require students to complete a written essay explaining how their behavior was irresponsible and what they are going to do to correct it.
General Safety Rules
1.) Always wear safety glasses or other eye protection when working in the shop.
2.) Running is not permitted in the shop.
3.) Horseplay (pushing, shoving or goofing around) is not permitted in the shop.
4.) Never throw tools or materials.
5.) Keep your work area neat. Pick up wood scraps which have fallen on the floor.
6.) Report any broken or unsafe tools immediately.
7.) Report any injuries immediately.
8.) Put away tools when you are through using them. Clean up your work area. Do any clean-up assignment you are asked to do.
9.) When carrying tools, always keep the pointed end down and away from you.
Although this will get you started, emphasizing safety must be done each time you have kids in your shop. Before beginning each work period ask for one or two examples of safety practices that would apply to the unit you are covering.
With the subject of safety fresh in their minds, it's about time to get the kids started on some type of project.
Since sanding will be required on just about every project you will do, it is an appropriate place to start.
In my next blog I will share my method of teaching kids how to sand easily and without becoming bored.
Paul Meisel
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #2
At what age are children ready to learn woodworking?
I took my niece and nephew to several of the Home Depot Kids’ workshops when they were ages 8 and 10 respectively. They both loved making the pre-cut, ready-to-glue-and-nail-together projects. They always needed at least some help from me, but they did most of the assembly themselves.
While at Home Depot, I watched children 5 or 6 years old, but it seemed to me that their parents were doing the majority of the assembly.
Although I applaud Home Depot for providing the Kids’ Workshop for introducing children to woodworking, my focus for this blog will go well beyond assembling pre-cut kits. Instead, I will share my experiences teaching children the skills needed to make projects starting with standard-size wood boards and doing all the necessary operations, from measuring, sawing, drilling, and fastening with minimum help from an adult.
Getting back to the subject of age, the youngest student who has taken my woodworking class was just under 9 years old. I feel that is about the youngest age that most children have the developmental skills needed to accomplish the lessons. Younger kids find the reading skills, manual skills and even the strength (for example when using the coping saw) to be just too difficult.
Also, children can be overwhelmed by the size and especially the noise of machines. The solution here is simply to start at the basics, slowly working your way up from skill to skill and from tool to tool on a gradient.
I used this gradient approach when setting up my entire woodworking program. Because my background is in teaching, I make sure students know the definitions of the words used and that there is a balance between the reading instruction and the hands-on experiences.
The first lesson is shop safety. It is irresponsible for anyone to start children working in a shop without first making sure they know what is expected of them and what they need to do to stay safe.
I welcome reader comments. I hope you will share your valuable insights and experiences teaching woodworking to young people.
My next blog will be on shop safety – the first step in preparing kids for a successful woodshop experience.
Paul Meisel
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #1
Woodworking with children
Hi, my name is Paul Meisel. My blog is about teaching woodworking to young people.
If you are wondering why this might be an important subject, or why you should care at all, please read on.
If woodworking is your hobby, I assume you find it enjoyable. I know I do! How did you become involved with this hobby? Did you learn about it in high school shop class? Did you have a relative or friend take you under his or her wing and get you started? Do you feel grateful that you have such a hobby?
Shop classes have been dropped from most high schools so kids today have limited exposure to woodworking. If we, as woodworkers, feel the slightest responsibility to our nation’s children, if we feel any obligation to return the favor of the person who got us interested in woodworking, we need to take an active role in introducing this great hobby to children.
But where do you start? At what age are children ready? What about safety? What would you say to kids the first day you invite them into your shop? What will you have them do the first day?
These are just some of the questions to be explored in this blog. I hope those of you who have experience working with kids will share your experiences.
My first job after college was an industrial arts instructor. I taught woodworking for ten years at the public school level (grades 7 – 9). Later I started a company developing project plans for the home hobbyist woodworker. For the last three years, I have volunteered as a part time woodworking teacher at a small private school near my home.
In this blog, I will be sharing my recent experiences teaching woodworking to students ages 9 – 15.
Here are some of my students with their first nailing project. To make a name plaque, students pound up to 200 wire nails. I believe that repetitive practice is a key to mastery.
Paul Meisel
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
