Blog #43
Hardwood Pencil Holder
Paul Meisel
In all earlier blogs I have specified softwood for the building material. The reason is simply that pine or other softwood is generally easier for kids to work with. For this project I recommend you use a hardwood. Any hardwood would be fine, but I prefer oak. Oak has a nice grain pattern and, since it is often used in furniture, picture frames and for moldings around doors and windows, young people should become familiar with oak and be able to identify it when they see it.
The machines necessary to make this project include the miter box and the drill press. The use of these tools has been covered in earlier blogs.
Here is a list of completely new things students will be learning:
1.) Working with hardwood.
2.) Cutting a 15 degree angle on the miter box.
3.) Drilling a deep hole in end grain.
4.) Using magnetic strip.
It is important to teach students the difference between hardwood and softwood. Softwoods come from evergreen or needle-bearing trees. Common softwoods include pine, cedar, fir and redwood. Hardwoods come from broad-leafed trees that shed their leaves in the fall. Common hardwoods include cherry, poplar, oak, maple, walnut, birch, ash and maple.
Although hardwoods are usually harder than softwoods, this is not always the case. Some softwoods are actually harder that some hardwoods. One example is poplar. Poplar is classified as a hardwood, but it is rather soft and easy to work.
Getting Started
Prepare the wood for this project by ripping a 3/4” wide strip from a piece of 3/4” lumber.
Check that the end is square. Then measure and make a mark 3-1/2” from the end.
Photo 2: Measure 3-1/2” from the end of the wood.
2.) Saw to length in the miter box.
Photo 3: Saw to length.
3.) Locate the center of one end and mark with a scratch awl.
Photo 4: Mark the center of one end.
4.) Install a 5/16” twist drill in the drill press. Clamp the stock securely. Drill a 2-1/2” deep hole.
Photo 5: Drill the hole for the pencil.
5.) With the miter box, saw the drilled end at a 15 degree slant.
Photo 6: Saw the end 15 degrees.
6.) Sand the project and apply wood finish.
7.) Cut a 3-3/8” long strip of magnetic strip. Remove the backing to expose the pressure sensitive adhesive and stick to the long side of the project.
Photo 7: Attach magnetic strip.
8.) Attach to the side or front of your refrigerator and slip a pencil in the hole.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
#43 Blog
Tree Cookies
I spoke recently with Terry Helbig, a Forester here in the State of Minnesota. He works out of the DNR office in Lake City. I was telling Terry about teaching woodworking to my students at Flagship Academy when the subject of tree cookies came up. I hadn’t heard this term before, but after doing some checking I realized what a great idea this would be for teaching kids how trees grow, the parts of a tree and give them an idea of time lines – counting the age of a tree and locating the year they were born by counting annular rings.
What is a Tree Cookie?
A tree cookie is just a cross section of a tree trunk. They will vary in diameter depending on how old the tree is. By sanding the surface smooth enough to see the annular rings, kids can find out how old the tree was when it was cut down.
Trained foresters who are familiar with trees can estimate the tree’s age, but for most of us, the only way to know a tree’s age is to count the annular rings.
Annular rings tell us more than just a trees age. A wide ring would tell us that there was a greater that average amount of growth that season. This might be because of abundant water, sunlight, nutrients or other factors.
Below is a tree cookie cut from an oak tree that was approximately 100 years old. In the center is a pin to show when the tree was “born.” The green labels have names of people in one family with their dates of birth (and the year they were married). The outer rings have the names of this family’s children as well as a niece and a nephew. The blue labels at the bottom record interesting events and how old the tree was when those events occurred. They include the year Charles Lindberg made his trans-Atlantic crossing, the year Bugs Bunny was created, the year World War II started, the year the Hula Hoop was invented, etc.
Figure 1: A Sample Tree Cookie
Using Tree Cookies to teach kids about trees
Cut cookies from tree trunks at least 3 to 4” in diameter (the trees don’t have to be 100 years old!). Have kids sand their tree cookie smooth enough so they can see and count the annular rings. Once they have determined how old the tree was when it was cut, have them mark the annular rings to show when they were born. Have them add dates of other events important to them.
More Information
Try an internet search using the term “tree cookie.” Here’s just a few of the helpful resources I found: The Tree Cookie Game (http://forestry.usu.edu/htm/kids-and-teachers/tree
Another good guide is called Connecting Kids to Nature put out by the Minnesota Department of Forestry www.dnr.state.mn.us. (From their home page click on DNR for Kids, then click on Project Learning Tree Family Activities and then click on Activity 76: Tree Cookies.) You will find an activity guide for learning the parts of a tree and about tree growth. Included is a word search puzzle for learning the parts of a tree trunk.
Also from the Minnesota Department of Forestry comes Project Learning Tree. Their web site is www.plt.org. Project Learning Tree provides ideas for teaching kids about forestry and the environment. Minnesota Project Learning Tree accepts tree cookie donations which they in turn distribute at no charge to schools in Minnesota for classroom teaching.
A gaint old Tree Cookie
My wife and I took my 6 year old grandson, Charlie, to the Science Museum in St. Paul where I photographed this giant tree cookie. It is a section of Douglas-fir that was felled in 1930 near Longview, Washington. This 600 year old tree was 300 feet tall and produced 30,000 board feet of lumber.
Figure 2: A Large Tree Cookie
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
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Blog #41
Making a Spin-A-Roo
This is a simple toy that has been made and enjoyed by people for many years. This star shaped project is cut on the scroll saw from 1/4” plywood. Here’s how it works:
A piece of string is threaded through the two center holes in the star and the two center holes in each handle. The ends of the string are then tied together in a knot to make a loop. Hold one handle in each hand with the wood star in the middle. Hold your hands about 10 inches apart and make a circular motion to “wind” the star on the loop of string. Then, before the star has a chance to unwind, pull your hands apart to make the star spin. As the star starts to slow down, move the handles just close enough together to allow the star to continue spinning in the opposite direction. Before the star comes to a stop, pull your hands apart to keep it spinning. Continue in this manner so the star spins in one direction and then the opposite direction.
Once you get the star spinning you will hear an interesting “zooming” sound. The shape of the star and the high speed it spins causes the zoom sound. If the project was made perfectly round there would be less of a zoom sound.
There is a knack to getting the star spinning, but once you master it, you will find it is easy and lots of fun.
This project will provide more practice on the scroll saw and the drill press.
Making the Star and the Handles
Start with a piece of 1/4” plywood at least 3-1/2” wide x 5” long. Use a scissors to cut around the outside of the paper pattern set.
Fig. 1: Cut out the set of patterns.
Attach the pattern sheet to your plywood with spray adhesive. Smooth the pattern with your fingers.
Fig. 2: Glue the pattern to your wood.
Mark the center of all holes with a scratch awl.
Fig. 3: Mark the center of all holes with a scratch awl.
Mount a 3/8” brad point bit in the drill press and set the speed to 2500 – 3000 RPM. Set the drill depth so only the tip of the brad point bit will go through the bottom of your plywood. The photo shows the tip going about 1/16” into a piece of scrap wood placed on top of the drill press table.
Fig. 4: Set the drill depth so the point of the brad point bit will just go through your wood.
With the depth stop set, drill all five 3/8” holes.
Fig. 5: Drill the 3/8” holes.
After you have drilled the five 3/8” holes you will be able to see the small holes where the point of the brad point bit came through. Turn your plywood over and finish drilling the holes through from the back side.
Fig. 6: Turn your wood over and finish drilling the 3/8” hole.
IMPORTANT TO KNOW
The reason for drilling from both sides is to prevent the 3/8” bit from splintering the wood as would happen if you were to drill all the way through in one step.
Mount a 7/64” twist bit in the drill press and drill the remaining holes in the star and in the handle pieces. Because the 7/64” bit is so small, you can drill all the way through your plywood in one step, but drill slowly, especially as the bit breaks through the bottom side to avoid splintering.
Fig. 7: Drill the 7/64” holes through.
Saw out the star and the two handles on a scroll saw.
Fig. 8: Saw out the patterns on a scroll saw.
Sand all edges smooth.
Fig. 9: Sand all parts.
Finish the project. You can paint it or use a clear wood finish.
Fig. 10: Apply wood finish.
Cut a piece of string 36” long. Thread the string as shown in the photo. A large needle makes it easier to get the string through the holes.
Fig. 11: String the parts.
Tie the ends of the string in a knot. Practice with the project until you have mastered how it works.
Fig. 12: Practice until you get the knack.
Fig. 13: Parker just mastered the technique.
Fig. 14: Isabelle and Stef demonstrate their Spin-A-Roos.
Reduce or enlarge to 3-1/2" x 5".
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 40
Using the Scroll Saw – Part 3
Sawing straight and Curved Cuts on the Scroll Saw
This exercise is designed to give students experience and practice using the scroll saw.
1.) Begin with a 10 inch length of “1 x 4” pine which will actually measure 3/4” x 3-1/2” x 10”, and a practice cutting pattern. Use a scissors to cut the paper cutting pattern to size.
If more that one child will be doing this it is important that they each print their name on each of the 6 boxes on the pattern sheet. These pieces will be sawed apart when doing this practice exercise.
2.) Lay the pattern UPSIDE DOWN in the cardboard spray-glue box. Hold the can of spray adhesive with the nozzle pointing toward the pattern and about 10 inches away. Spray an even coat of adhesive on the back of the pattern.
3.) Make sure your wood is dust-free by wiping it with a rag. Adhere the pattern to the wood by pressing down with your fingers.
4.) Use a scratch awl to mark the location of the 1/4” hole in Section A.
5.) Drill the 1/4” hole all the way through using the drill press.
6.) If your scroll saw has a hold-down foot, place your work under it and adjust the foot so it touches the top of your wood.
7.) Turn on the saw and adjust the speed. For most saws that use pin-end blades, adjust it to the fastest speed.
8.) Stand in front of the saw with your fingers on each side of the wood. Relax and take a deep breath. Turn the saw on and start sawing on the straight line. Don’t try and cut too fast, but don’t saw too slow either. You will soon get “a feel” for how fast to feed the wood into the blade. TIP: Always keep your fingers to the sides of the blade, never directly in line with the front of the blade.
The first line you should saw is the straight line. Try and saw down the center of this line.
If you start to wander off the line, slow down and gently turn the wood with your fingertips to guide the blade back to the line. Do not cut the oval piece out at this time.
9.) When you finish cutting Line #1, set the piece you just cut off aside and begin cutting the line marked #2.
10.) Continue to cut each section A-F. On section F, cut the lines and practice making the very sharp turn at the end of each line. When you reach this sharp “turn around,” stop pushing the wood, relax, and rotate your wood around the blade. The pin-end blades are larger that the pin-less blades, but can be made to cut very sharp turns, but it takes practice.
Making Inside Cuts
1.) Now pick up section A, the first piece you cut off. You will be cutting out the oval shape. This is called an inside cut. To make this cut, unplug the scroll saw, loosen the blade tension adjustment knob, remove the blade and slip it through the 1/4” hole. Re-install the blade and tighten the blade tension adjustment knob to readjust the blade tension. Be sure the teeth are facing you and pointing down.
2.) Saw out the oval cutout.
3.) Remove the blade from your wood by reversing the steps above. Reinstall the blade so the saw is ready for the next person to use.
Enlarge or reduce image to fit 3-1/2"W x 10"H. Cut out image and glue to 3/4" pine.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
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Blog #39
Using the Scroll Saw – Part 2
Selecting the Correct Blade
There are many different types of scroll saw blades. The most important difference is in the number of teeth there are per inch of blade. This is abbreviated tpi (teeth per inch).
To get started, you teacher will select a type of blade suitable for the saw you are using. The chart below is helpful as a general guide for selecting the number of teeth per inch. Notice that the thinner the material to be cut the more teeth per inch the blade should have.
This chart is only a guide. For example if you are cutting 3/4” lumber, you could use from 8 to 12 tpi. The blade with fewer teeth (8 tpi) will generally cut the wood faster, but since the teeth are larger will not cut as smooth as a blade with more teeth per inch.
A fine blade (one with many teeth per inch) will give you a smooth cut but will cut more slowly. Fine blades also tend to break more often.
Select a Blade Based on the Thickness of Wood you are Cutting
Material Thickness
Less than 1/8”
1/8” – 1/2”
1/2” – 1”
3/4” – 1-1/2”
1” – 2”
Although the chart above is a good general guide, keep in mind that there are other factors to consider. If you are cutting very hard wood such as oak, a blade with larger (fewer teeth per inch)
Practical: Installing the Blade
A. Unplug the scroll saw from the wall receptacle.
B. Loosen the Lock Knob (if your saw is so equipped) that holds the clear plastic Blade Guard and swing it up and out of the way.
C. Swing the Guards to expose the Upper and Lower Blade Holders. Remove the Throat Plate.
D. Loosen the Blade Tension Adjustment Knob.
E. Push down on the Upper Arm to release tension and remove the old blade. Position the new blade in the Lower Blade Holder. Be sure the blade teeth point down and toward you.
F. If using a pin end blade, push down on the Upper Arm and hook the upper end of the blade into the Upper Blade Holder. Important: Make sure the pins in each end of the blade are seated in the grooves in the Blade Holders. For scroll saws using plain end blades, refer to the owners manual for proper blade installation.
G. Tighten the Blade Tension Adjustment Knob to increase the tension on the blade. Pluck the blade like a guitar string. The blade will make a musical sound when plucked. A dull sound means there isn’t enough tension on the blade. Likewise, the blade shouldn’t be too tight far either.
Determining the correct blade tension takes some practice. If the blade is too loose it will drift off the cutting line when you are cutting. A blade that is too loose can also cause the scroll saw to vibrate and make excessive noise. If the blade is too tight is could break. If you adjust the tension correctly the saw will cut much better and the blade will last much longer.
H. Replace the Throat Plate and swing the Upper and Lower Blade Guards back in place.
K. Re-plug the scroll saw in to the wall receptacle.
Adjusting the Speed
The scroll saw pictured has a variable speed switch. For each of the practice exercises below turn the switch to the fastest speed. If you are using a scroll saw other that that pictured, refer to the owner’s manual.
Patterns
There are thousands of projects you can make using the scroll saw. You can find patterns in books, plan catalogs and on the internet. The patterns you will be using in these practice exercises were chosen to provide experience in making straight, curved and inside cuts. Before beginning, study the safety rules below.
Safety Rules
The scroll saw is one of the safest power tools to use, but this does not mean that accident can’t happen. As with any power tool, use common sense when you operate the scroll saw. Here are some general safety rules to know and follow.
1. Always wear safety goggles.
2. Keep your fingers to the side of the blade, never in front (that is, never in the path of the blade).
3. Dress appropriately: Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry. Tie long hair back behind your head.
4. Unplug the scroll saw when changing blades or making adjustments.
5. Do not talk to others while using the saw. Do not distract others while they are using the saw.
6. Always turn the power switch off when you leave the machine.
7. Do not turn on or off the power switch for someone else.
8. Keep the floor clear of scraps of wood.
9. If the machine doesn’t sound right, turn it off immediately and make the necessary adjustments.
10. Slow down the feed rate (how fast you push the wood into the blade) before you finish a cut.
11. Slack off the blade tension at the end of the day or when the machine
will not be used for an extended period of time.
Next Blog – Sawing with the scroll saw.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #38
Using the Scroll Saw
Introduction
In my previous blogs I have described ways to teach woodworking to children as young as 8 or 9 years old using only a minimum number of hand tools and a drill press. Most of my blogs are presented as actual instructional units. Each unit builds upon the previous unit thereby taking children through the learning process step by step. By using the same tools over and over students begin to feel comfortable with them and really understand the basics. The whole purpose is to help teachers, parents and grandparents expose kids to the hobby of woodworking in a logical and safe way.
Now it’s time to introduce the scroll saw. You can teach some children as young as 8 years old to use this versatile tool. This unit has been tested with my students at Flagship Academy. It takes students through a step by step learning process beginning with confronting the saw, learning its parts, learning hoe to set up the saw and how to practice with it.
Information about scroll saws:
The scroll saw is designed for cutting curves and intricate shapes in wood, plastic and soft metal. It has a thin blade which moves up and down. To use the scroll saw place your wood on the table of the saw and push it into the blade, turning the wood as needed to follow the cutting line.
Scroll saw blades are installed with the teeth pointing down. This is because the scroll saw cuts on the down stroke. Blades are available with very fine teeth for cutting thin material and soft metals and larger teeth for cutting thicker material.
Besides its ability to cut outside curves, the scroll saw can be used to cut inside openings. An example of an inside opening would be the center of the letter “O.” To cut an inside opening, drill a hole somewhere inside the opening, remove the blade from the blade holder, thread the blade through the hole and retighten the blade.
Scroll Saw Blades
All scroll saws use either a plain end blade or a pin end blade. (fig. 1) The pin end blades are usually larger in size that the plain end so do not cut sharp curves as easily.
Fig. 1: Top – Plain end scroll saw blade. Bottom – pin end scroll saw blade.
Learning the Parts of the Scroll Saw
With the scroll saw unplugged, use your finger to touch each of the parts shown below, then write in the name of each part in the columns A – N below.
Parts of the Scroll Saw
To become familiar with the scroll saw you should know the names of the most important parts. Study the parts of the scroll saw, then fill in the name of each part in column A – N.
A._______________________ H._______________________
B._______________________ I.________________________
C._______________________ J.________________________
D._______________________ K._______________________
E._______________________ L._______________________
_
F._______________________ M._______________________
G._______________________ N._______________________
Practical: Confronting the Scroll Saw and Learning its Parts
This drill is done with the student and a coach. The coach can be another student or an adult. It is done exactly as follows:
Position – The student and coach stand in front of the scroll saw. Is is best if no other students are in the near vicinity.
Materials – The coach has a copy of this page.
Commands – The coach starts the drill by saying “Start of drill.” The coach selects one of the parts of the scroll saw and says: “Touch the _____.” The student touches that part. If the student touches the correct part the coach acknowledges by saying: “Thank you.” “good,” “excellent,” “alright,” etc. (It’s nice to vary your acknowledgements.)
If the student does not know the part or touches the wrong part the coach says “flunk” and shows the student the correct part as identified by the pictures. The coach them repeats the same command: “Touch the _____” and acknowledges the student as above. The coach then asks the student to touch another part
My next blog will cover blade selection, installing a blade and adjusting speed.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 37
Painted Shields
When you teach woodworking you’re bound to have people ask you to make them something. A couple of weeks ago my daughter-in-law did just that. She was planning the kids’ party for my grandson Charlie’s 6th birthday.
Charlie loves castles, knights, and anything medieval. That includes the shield and sword of the medieval knights. “Could you cut out 11 shields for the kids to paint? I’ll glue cloth handles on the back.” “Well, yes” I said. “I will cut out plywood shields for the kids, but no, I can’t go with cloth handles glued to the back. Let me figure out a better handle. When do you need them by?”
I was told I had almost 2 weeks until the party, so that was a nice surprise. I decided to use 1/8” plywood because it is light weight and strong enough for the purpose. But what about the handles? I thought about that for a day or two and remembered that I had some old drawer pulls in the garage. I managed to find them and I did have enough for all the shields. All I would need to do would be to drill holes in the shields and find some shorter screws to attach the handles.
Figure 1: Drawer handles made sturdy handles.
Organize things as best you can.
The day of the party we covered the table with paper, set up paper plates to use for painting (we showed the kids how to squeeze paint from the bottles to the paper plates). We had water for rinsing the brushes and paper towels to use to partially dry the brushes after rinsing. We alerted the parents that the kids would be painting and most brought “paint shirts.”
Figure 2: Organize the work place.
Tell the kids what they will be doing and how to do it.
It’s hard to get the entire group to listen when you are dealing with 5 and 6 year olds, but do your best to give them the basics. “Try not to get your sleeve in the paint. Two colors are usually enough. Rinse your brush if you change to a different paint. Any questions?”
My wife and I as well as my son and his wife and the father of one of the other children all monitored the table. We changed the rinse water periodically but otherwise didn’t have to do much but watch the activity.
Figure 3: The kids loved the project and each one worked to complete their own shield.
Figure 4: My grandson, Charlie.
The objective: Finish the exercise without incident.
We weren’t teaching a class in decorative painting. We thought it would be a major victory if we got all the kids to finish painting without spoiling expensive clothing or spilling a glass of rinse water.
With that goal in mind, I felt we were successful. The paint tended to be laid on rather thick, but there were no catastrophes.
Figure 5: The paint tended to be laid on heavy.
Jewels – the crowing touch.
We had plenty of large jewels on hand to glue on to the shields for further decoration.
Figure 6: Where to place the jewels?
Charlie’s 3 year old brother participated too.
Leo, Charlie’s brother, fit right in with the 5 and 6 year olds. He used perhaps the heaviest coat of paint.
Figure 7: The 3 year old participated in the project. Besides lots of paint he wanted a few jewels.
We finished without a hitch.
We were relieved that there were no major problems with this exercise. The kids all loved painting the shields. The Delta paint dried quickly, but the shields with heavy paint weren’t quite dry when the parents picked up their kids so we cautioned them to handle carefully. Figure 8 and 9 show some of the finished shields.
Figure 8: Three of the finished shields.
Figure 9: A multi-colored shield with jewels.
Final thoughts.
We provided each child with a soft foam sword to go with the shield. We passed out the swords about 10 minutes before the party was officially over. This resulted in a very large and enthusiastic sword fight battle. Our instructions were that the fighting was to be “sword to sword,” never strike another person. The kids loved the party and we deemed it a success. I will say that we were glad to see the parents pick up their children. As grandparents we aren’t used to so much motion and so much noise!
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
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Specialty: Woodworking with Children
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#36 Blog
Some Ideas for Toys
I had a nice surprise the other day - a package arrived in the mail. When I opened it I saw it contained some toy trucks and a five piece train. I carefully read the cover letter. It was from Stuart Ward of California. Stuart mentioned in his cover letter that he had modified some of my Molding Car plans. (See my Blogs #29 & 30 – Molding Cars Part 1 & Part 2). The reason these cars are called “Molding Cars” is because they were originally designed to be built from standard size moldings that can be found at most any lumberyard or home center.
Teaching woodworking to young people has its share of challenges. For some people the biggest challenge is having enough tools, especially power tools. Without a table saw and a router you are limited as to what you can make. It was for that reason I wanted to design some projects that my students could make using only a miter box and drill press. By cutting off just the right length of various shapes of molding, cars and trucks could be made with interesting shapes that were pleasing to the eye. Plus they were fun for my students.
Stuart said in his cover letter that he did what I hope lots of others will do. He designed projects based (roughly) on the original cars and trucks I introduced, but with his own style and creativity. I like it when people create new designs. And I certainly enjoyed seeing the projects Stuart sent.
Stuart added that he has sold his trucks very successfully in craft boutiques in Orange, California. He said that the molding trucks below were the best sellers! (Fig. 1)
Fig. 1: Trucks made from standard size moldings (plus a wood turning).
Also in Stuart’s package was a toy train (Fig. 2). Since I like working with children, I naturally had to size his train project up to determine if my students could manage it. As can be seen in Figure 3, his cars are designed with two pieces of 3/4” pine face-glued together. By offsetting these pieces, a hole can be drilled in the upper piece and a wood dowel “peg” added for a hitch pin (Fig. 3). Each car requires two boards that are 2-1/4” wide by 6-1/2” long. They are glued together with a 1-1/2” overlap on each end making the total length of each car 8”. The dowel used for the connecting pin is 3/8” diameter and the receiving hole in the lower board is drilled 7/16” diameter. The wheels are attached to 3-1/2” lengths of 1/4” wood dowel which go through what appears to be a 5/16” hole drilled through the bottom board.
This is a simple enough project for children to do. They will need to design the remaining parts that make up the engine and car bodies. Some, but not all, of these parts can be made from standard wood molding profiles which can be cut using a miter box. You may have to help students with some of the odd shaped parts. The barrels are attached with wood dowels. Drill three 1/4” holes in the base assembly and glue a short length of dowel into each hole. Drill a hole just slightly larger than the dowel in the bottom of the barrel so it can be slipped on and off – good fun! The wheels and cargo are available from mail order sources such as Meisel Hardware Specialties or Cherry Tree.
Since this train in not my design I can not offer drawings for it. But I have included it so you can have your children make something similar. It illustrates another project you can have your children work on. You can encourage creative design when it comes to how the cars are made – a good thing!
Fig. 2: A simple train with a clever system to connect the cars.
Fig. 3: The cars connect using a 3/8” diameter wood dowel.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
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Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 35
Making a Grass Head – Part 3
Final Assembly and Care of the Project
1.) Write your name on the bottom of the yogurt cup.
Photo Caption Fig. 25: Write your name on the bottom of the yogurt cup.
2.) Fill the yogurt container about 3/4 full of water.
3.) Slip the feet and arm pieces over the container.
4.) Moisten the head with water, then slip it into the yogurt container.
The project is now finished. Put it in a sunny area and wait for the grass to begin to grow.
Photo Caption Fig. 26: Completed grass head.
After one week the grass should start to work its way through the stocking.
Photo Caption Fig. 27: After one week.
After two weeks you should see more and more grass.
Photo Caption Fig. 28: After two weeks.
Painting
Even though each grass head starts out pretty much the same, you can expect to see a great deal of change when the eyes are glued in place, the smile has been drawn on the project’s head and especially when the painting of the body has been completed.
Each project will take on its own personality – each project will be completely different from any of the others.
All of the kids I worked with loved painting their projects. Kids can be creative when given the chance, and, as you can see from the photographs, these projects certainly allow the creative juices to flow!
Anytime kids use paint, there is the potential for accidents, especially for clothes to get ruined. Cover the table with newspaper and be sure everyone wears an apron or a old shirt. One of my students put his shirt on backwards for the best protection.
Photo Caption Fig. 29: Wear protective clothing when painting.
Dipping a finger in paint and flicking it onto the project creates an interesting “splatter” pattern.
Photo Caption Fig. 30: Spattering paint with a flick of the finger.
Once painted, each grass head will take on its own personality.
Photo Caption Fig. 31: No two projects will ever be exactly alike.
Caring for your Grass Head
Your grass head will require that you keep it watered. If you let the water in the yogurt container dry up, the grass will die.
It is best to check the water level about once a week. Carefully lift off the head and refill the yogurt container so it is about 3/4 full of water.
Put some thought into where you place your grass head. Grass grows well in moderate sun. Perhaps choose a window sill on the south side of your house. Place it where it won’t get too hot or too cold.
Watch the hair grow
It’s fun to watch and wait for the grass to grow. Figures 32 – 35 show the variety of paint schemes and the progress of the growth of the “hair.”
Photo Caption Fig. 32: Growth of hair after about 1 week.
Photo Caption Fig. 33: Growth of hair after about 2 weeks.
Photo Caption Fig. 34: Hair continues to get longer.
Photo Caption Fig. 35: Time for a hair cut!
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Blog 34
Making a Grass Head – Part 2
Painting the project
1.) How you paint your grass head is up to you. Here is how we painted the project pictured here: Begin by drawing a pencil line to show where to paint the hand and sleeves. Paint the sleeves a solid color. Paint the shoe piece white. Paint the top surface and the inside and outside edges a bright color. It is not necessary to paint the bottom of the wood pieces.
Photo Caption Fig. 12: Paint the top.
Photo Caption Fig. 13: Paint the inside and outside edges.
2.) Set the painted pieces on triangle drying sticks until the paint dries.
Photo Caption Fig. 14: Set the painted pieces on triangle drying sticks to dry.
Assembling the Grass Head
1.) Use a permanent ink felt pen to write your name on your stocking.
Photo Caption Fig. 15: Print your name on the top of the stocking.
2.) A good way to hold the stocking in position is to pull it over a can. The stocking will form a small bowl which you will be filling with grass seed and potting soil. Adjust the stocking so the bowl is about 2” deep.
Photo Caption Fig. 16: Stretch the stocking over the can to form a 2” deep “bowl.”
3.) Place a rounded teaspoon of grass seed in the bowl.
Photo Caption Fig. 17: Place a rounded teaspoon of grass seed in the bowl.
4.) Spoon one cup of potting soil into a measuring cup.
Photo Caption Fig. 18: Spoon out one cup of potting soil.
5.) Push the stocking down a little further into the can and add the potting soil.
Photo Caption Fig. 19: Add the potting soil.
6.) Carefully lift the stocking from the can and tie a knot as close as possible to the ball formed by the potting soil. Try not to disturb the seed.
Photo Caption Fig. 20: Tie a knot close to the ball.
7.) Pull the knot tight.
Photo Caption Fig. 21: Tighten the knot.
8.) Use a permanent ink felt pen to draw a smile on the stocking head.
Photo Caption Fig. 22: Draw a smile on the stocking.
9.) Glue plastic jiggle eyes in place using silicon glue. Important – Place the head in a safe place and allow the silicon glue to dry overnight.
Photo Caption Fig. 23: Glue on two eyes using silicon glue.
10. Use a permanent ink felt pen to draw shoelaces on the feet.
Photo Caption Fig. 24: Draw on shoelaces.
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Blog 33
Making a Grass Head – Part 1
Adults like this project just as much as the children. You will be cutting the arms and legs from thin plywood. Either a coping saw or a scroll saw can be used to cut these parts. Use a plastic yogurt container for the body. The head is made from a nylon stocking that is filled with grass seed and potting soil.
You will need to keep the yogurt container partly filled with water at all times. The water will moisten the nylon stocking and wick its way up and keep the soil damp. After about a week the grass will start to grow. The blades of grass will grow through the stocking and create what looks like green hair.
How your grass head will look after the hair grows out will be a surprise! Each grass head will look a little different. Each will have its own personality!
After you have finished making your grass head project, you must care for it as you would care for any living thing. The main thing is to keep water in the yogurt container. If you forget to check it every 3 or 4 days the water will dry up and the grass will die.
Know your Words
Read the following definitions and make up your own sentences using the word until you know its meaning.
Yogurt – [Turkish – yoghurt] A thick liquid food made from milk which has been fermented with bacteria. It is believed to have a beneficial effect on the intestines. Yogurt blended with fruit makes a drink called a smoothie.
Wick – [Old English weoce from Indo European weg – to weave] Cord of twisted thread as in an oil lamp or candle. When the wick is lit it draws oil or melted wax up to be burned. Some athletic stockings can act as a wick to draw sweat away from the feet.
Practical – Making a Grass Head
1.) Begin with a pattern for the arm and leg and a piece of 3mm poplar plywood. With a scissors, cut the rectangle shape around the patterns.
Photo Caption Fig. 1: Cut the patterns.
2.) Prepare the surface of the plywood by wiping it with a rag to remove dust.
3.) Place the pattern sheet (not the plywood) face down on newspaper in the cardboard “spray glue box.” Hold a can of temporary-bond spray adhesive with the nozzle pointing toward the pattern and about 14” away. Spray the adhesive on the back of the pattern until it has been covered completely, but do not spray so much adhesive that the pattern gets “wet.” Let the paper dry a few minutes if you have over-applied the adhesive.
Photo Caption Fig. 2: Apply spray adhesive to the back of the pattern.
4.) Adhere the pattern to your wood by gently pressing it down with the tips of your fingers.
Photo Caption Fig. 3: Press the paper pattern onto your wood.
5.) Use a scratch awl to mark the 4 holes to be drilled.
Photo Caption Fig. 4: Mark the four holes to be drilled.
6.) Prepare the drill press as follows:
A. Install a 7/32” twist bit in the drill press.
B. Set the spindle speed between 2000 and 2500 RPM.
C. Adjust the table height for a through hole.
Drill the four 7/32” holes through your plywood. The purpose for drilling a hole on the inside of each piece is so you can slip the coping saw blade through. The purpose for the remaining holes is to prevent having to cut the tight corner.
Photo Caption Fig. 5: Drill the four 7/32” holes through.
7.) To cut out the inside and outside of the arm and body piece, you will be using a coping saw with a fine tooth blade (24 tpi). To begin, loosen the coping saw blade, slip one end through the hole, and replace the blade in the frame. Be sure the teeth are pointing toward the handle and that the paper pattern is facing up (away from the handle).
Photo Caption for Fig. 6: Slip the blade through one of the drilled holes to cut out the inside hole.
8.) Using a “V” board to support your work, begin by sawing the center hole in one of the pieces.
Photo Caption Fig. 7: Start by sawing out the centers of both pieces.
9.) Cut the center hole from the second piece, then cut around the outside of both pieces.
Photo Caption Fig. 8: Saw around the outside of both pieces.
10.) Peel off the paper pattern sheet and discard. Using coarse sandpaper, sand the inside (Fig. 9) and the outside (Fig. 10) of each piece.
Photo Caption Fig. 9: Sand the inside edge.
Photo Caption Fig. 10: Sand the outside edge.
11.) Write your name on the bottom of each piece. (Fig. 11)
Photo Caption Fig. 11: Print your name on the bottom of each piece.
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Blog 32
Using the Coping Saw – Part 3
Making a T Puzzle:
1. Begin by cutting the pattern out.
Fig. 14: Cut the pattern from the sheet.
2. Spray the back of your pattern.
Fig. 15: Use spray adhesive in a protected area.
3. Press the pattern to your wood by pressing down with your fingers.
Fig. 16: Use your fingers to press the pattern to your wood.
4. If your strip of wood is too long to easily work with, cut off a piece just large enough to make your project.
Fig. 17: Use the miter box to saw off just enough wood to make the project.
5. Clamp a V-block to the bench top or in the vise and begin cutting. Follow the cut lines as carefully as you can. Remember to keep the blade perpendicular to the wood while you cut. If the saw blade waders off the line, stop sawing, back up to where you were sawing on the line, and restart the cut from there.
6. It is best to first saw out the T shape (Fig. 18), then saw the puzzle into its four parts. (Fig. 19) Since it is hard to start a cut on a corner, try doing so by holding the saw as shown in figure 19. Remember to hold the saw perpendicular to the wood once you have the saw cut started.
Fig. 18: Saw around the perimeter of the pattern first.
Fig. 19: Tilting the saw makes it easier to start a corner cut.
7. After you have finished sawing out the 4 parts of the puzzle, write your name on the back of each piece.
Fig. 20: Write your name on the back of each of the puzzle pieces.
8. Peel off the paper pattern.
Fig. 21: Peel off the paper pattern after writing your name on each piece.
9. Sand the edges of each piece smooth. Sand out the rough saw cut marks, but don’t over sand the pieces. Too much sanding will make the pieces too small and they won’t fit together well.
Fig. 22: Hold the sandpaper flat on the table and sand the edge of each piece.
Fig. 23: Sand the inside corner by holding the piece over the edge of the table.
10, Assemble the project to be sure you know how it goes together. Then challenge your friends to see if they can solve the puzzle.
Fig. 24: Practice putting the puzzle together until you can do it quickly.
Making a Belt Hook
1. Like the T puzzle, this project is cut from 1/4” softwood. Glue the pattern to your wood making sure the direction of grain noted on the pattern is the same as the grain direction on your wood.
2. Saw out the pattern, sand the edges smooth and peel off the pattern.
3. Write your name on the bottom edge.
4. Demonstrate how you can hold the tip of the belt hook on the end of your finger.
Fig. 25: The belt hook seems to defy gravity.
Patterns for the T Puzzle and the Belt Hook
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Blog 31
Using the Coping Saw – Part 2
5. Making an Inside Cut:
Making an inside cut simply means to cut out a shape that isn’t sawn from the edge. An example would be cutting the circle in figure 10. As you can see, a hole must first be drilled in the area to be cut out. The exact location of the hole isn’t too important (as long as it’s inside the area to be cut out). However, the diameter of the hole must be large enough so you can easily slide the blade through it. A 1/4” diameter hole works well. After you have drilled the hole, you must loosen the blade, slip one end out from the blade holder and then through the hole. Then re-attach the blade into the frame.
Fig. 10: Remove blade, slip it through the hole, and re-install the blade.
Fig. 11: Sawing an inside hole with the blade angled in the frame.
Remember that the direction you face the saw teeth is important. In Figure 10 the saw teeth point away from the handle and the wood will be clamped vertically in a vise. In Figure 11 the teeth point toward the handle so the wood can be cut using a V-block (or clamped horizontally in a vise).
As you saw along the line, turning the saw as needed, the frame of the saw will eventually hit the side of the table, preventing you from continuing the cut. If you are using a V-block this is no problem. Simply reposition your work and continue sawing. However, if the work is held stationary in a vise, as in figure 11, you will need to rotate the blade in the frame.
To rotate the blade, loosen the handle and rotate both of the pins that hold the blade. When you have the blade where you want it, retighten the handle. If you look at figure 11 closely you can see that the pins on the saw are pointing ninety degrees from the frame.
Making Projects using a Coping Saw
You have learned what a coping saw is, how to change the coping saw blade, and you have made practiced cuts with the saw. Now it’s time to make some projects using this handy saw.
A T Puzzle is a simple project which is a lot of fun to show your friends. This simple puzzle has only 4 parts so it should be simple to solve, right? Well you will be surprised when you give the pieces to your friends and ask them to make a “T” shape from the 4 simple pieces! It’s much more difficult than you might imagine!
Fig. 12: The T puzzle is a challenge to solve.
A Belt Hook is another simple project that you can show your friends. This hook seems to have magic qualities because when you put a belt in the hook, you can hold the hook by the tip of your finger without it falling.
Fig. 13: The belt hook is almost like magic. It seems to defy gravity.
For either project, start with a piece of 1/4” thick softwood such as basswood. You will also need a pattern, a scissors and temporary bond spray adhesive.
Note: Email me at paul@meiselwoodhobby.com if you need a source for 1/4” thick basswood for the upcoming projects.
Before starting on the project, read and study the information below on attaching patterns with spray adhesive.
Attaching Patterns Using Temporary-Bond Spray Adhesive
The word temporary comes from the Latin word tempus which means time. Temporary means for a limited time; not permanent. The word adhesive comes from the Latin word adhaerere which means to stick. The word adhesive is just another word for glue.
A temporary-bond adhesive is used when you want to attach, or bond, a paper pattern to your wood and then remove the pattern later on.
Read the following information on using temporary-bond spray adhesive:
A. Wear safety glasses whenever using spray adhesive.
B. Wipe away any sawdust from the wood piece to which you will be attaching the pattern.
C. Spray adhesive is messy; work only with newspaper under your pattern. Spray the adhesive in a cardboard box to contain the spray.
D. Look for the arrow on top of the nozzle to see the direction of spray.
E. Lay the pattern UPSIDE DOWN on the newspaper.
F. Hold the can of spray adhesive with the nozzle pointing toward the pattern and about 14” from the pattern. Spray a light fog of adhesive on the back of the pattern. Do not spray so much adhesive that the pattern gets “wet.” Let the paper dry for a few minutes if you have over-applied the adhesive.
How far away is 14”? Hold a ruler or measuring tape so one end rests on your pattern. Hold the nozzle of the can of spray adhesive 14” from the pattern. NOTE: There may be some sticky glue on the nozzle - be careful not to get it on your ruler. Notice how far the nozzle is from your pattern when it is 14” away. Whenever you use spray adhesive try to hold the nozzle about this distance from your work. This is an approximate distance.
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Blog 30
Using the Coping Saw – Part 1
Although my students prefer to use the scroll saw over the coping saw, the truth is that most students won’t have access to a scroll saw after they leave my class. By learning how to use a coping saw it is my hope that they might continue making projects using this inexpensive little saw.
In part 1 & 2 of this blog I present the actual instructional unit I use with my students. It includes definitions of terms, general information, how to change a blade and, of course, projects children can make. The projects in this blog use 1/4” basswood as it is easier for beginners than, for example, 3/4” pine would be.
Have your children (or students) read and study the following information in the same manner they would if using a textbook.
1. Read the following definitions and use the words in sentences until you know their meanings:
Coping Saw – A saw with a narrow blade in a U-shaped frame used for cutting curves.
Fig. 1: Coping Saw
V-Block – A piece of wood with a V-shaped notch on one end. It is clamped to the work table with the V-notch overhanging the side of the table. It is used to support the wod being sawed with the coping saw.
Fig. 2: V-Block
C-Clamp – A clamp in the shape of the letter C. It is used to clamp wood and other material.
Fig. 3: C-Clamp
Perpendicular – Straight up or down or at a 90 degree angle to a line or surface.
2. Read the following information about the coping saw:
The coping saw has a U-shaped frame and a thin blade. Because of the thin blade, coping saws are often used for cutting curves.
Coping saw blades are made with fine teeth (up to 32 teeth per inch for cutting very thin wood or soft metal) to very coarse teeth (as few as 10 teeth per inch for cutting wood 1 inch or thicker). A good blade for general cutting would be a blade with 12 to 15 teeth per inch.
There are two main ways to use a coping saw:
A. Sawing with a V-block:
The purpose of the V-block is to support your wood while you cut. (Fig. 4) To use the V-block, position your wood so the line you are sawing is over the V-shaped cutout. (You will need to keep repositioning the wood as you cut.) Hold the wood with one hand and use your other hand to hold the saw. Start the cut by pulling down on the saw handle. Important – the teeth must point downward (toward the handle) because you will be sawing on the down stroke. Apply a small amount of forward pressure as you saw, but do not push forward too hard or the blade will stick. Try to keep the blade perpendicular to the work piece. Make slow, even strokes - around one stroke per second.
Fig, 4: The saw teeth point down toward the handle when using a V-block to support your wood.
B. Sawing with the wood held in a vise:
A vise will hold your work securely so you can hold the handle of the coping saw with both hands. Position your wood so the line you will be sawing is above the vise. You will need to keep repositioning the wood as you cut. When using the coping saw with the wood held in the vise, the saw teeth should point forward (away from the handle) because you will be cutting as you push the saw away from you.
Fig. 5: The saw teeth point away from the handle when using a vise to support your wood.
Read the definitions and make up sentences using the words. Locate each of the parts of the saw on the diagram.
Fig. 6: The parts of the coping saw.
Frame – A U-shaped metal framework that holds the saw blade and handle.
Handle – The part of the coping saw held in the hand. It is used to push or pull the saw while you are sawing.
Blade – The saw blade itself. Coping saw blades can be put into the frame with the teeth pointing toward the handle or away from the handle. Coping saw blades are available with different numbers of teeth per inch.
Blade Holder – Metal holders on each end of the frame which hold the blade.
Pins – Steel pins attached to the blade holders at each end of the frame. The pin nearest the handle is held with one hand while you loosen or tighten the handle with your other hand.
Clockwise – Turning in the same direction as the hands of a clock.
Counterclockwise – Turning in the opposite direction as the hands of a clock.
3. Changing the blade of a coping saw:
Read the steps for changing the blade, then demonstrate how to remove the blade from the coping saw and re-install it with the teeth pointing in the opposite direction.
Steps to changing the blade on the coping saw.
A. Hold the pin which is nearest to the handle tight to the frame so it won’t turn while you turn the handle counterclockwise to remove the tension from the blade.
Fig. 7: Hold the pin against the frame to keep it from turning as you turn the handle.
B. Place the frame of the saw against the workbench and push on the handle to flex the frame enough to slip the blade out from the blade holders.
Fig. 8: Push the handle until the frame springs together enough to release the blade.
C. You can now replace the blade with a new blade or just reverse the blade as needed.
D. To retighten the blade, hold the pin against the frame and turn the handle clockwise to tighten it.
4. Making Practice Cuts with a Coping Saw:
Clamp the V-block to the worktable making sure the end with the V shaped notch hangs over the edge of the table. Be sure the saw teeth are facing toward the handle. Position the wood to be cut on top of the V-block. Hold the saw handle in one hand and pull down on the saw slowly to start the cut. As you saw along the cut line, keep repositioning your work so the part you are sawing is supported by the V-block.
Fig. 9: Hold the saw vertically with the wood supported by the V-block.
Ask your teacher for a practice piece of wood. Draw some curved lines on one end of the board and begin practice cutting.
Blog #30
Molding Cars – Part 2
Putting the Parts Together
The cove moldings that make up the cab have three holes which need to be drilled for the “running lights.” The only exception is if you are making the roadster. This car requires drilling a single hole in the back of the cove molding to hold the spare wheel. Refer to the drawings for the size and locations of any holes. With a ruler and a sharp lead pencil, measure the locations of these holes and mark them with a scratch awl.
Clamp the cove molding in a drill press vise and install a 5/32” twist bit in the chuck. Set the drill press to drill a 3/16” deep hole. If you go much deeper than this you could break through the other side!
The shank of the axle pegs must be shortened. With a ruler and a sharp lead pencil, make a mark 3/16” from the underside of the head of the axle peg. Cut the axle pegs to length with a fine blade saw.
Sand the ends of the axle pegs as necessary and glue them into the cove molding.
Check the drawing of the project you are making to see what other pieces you will need. Measure and cut the pieces needed, sand and glue them in place.
Install the Wheels and Axles
The wheels are held on by the axle pegs. The shank of the axle pegs are slightly larger that the 5/32” hole in which they will be installed. Because the axle pegs fit so tight, it is seldom necessary to add glue. IMPORTANT: If you pound the axle peg down too far the wheel won’t turn! To make matters worse, because of the tight fit you probably won’t be able to correct the problem by pulling the axle peg back out. There is a good way to avoid this problem. The secret is to place a shim about 1/16” thick under one side of the wheel and pound the axle down until it just touches the shim. The shim can be wood or cardboard. Quit pounding the axle peg as soon as you see the wheel touches the shim. Then remove the shim and re-use on the next wheel.
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Blog #29
Molding Cars – Part 1
These little cars can be made from standard size wood molding. The purpose of the exercise is to provide practice measuring and cross cutting on the miter box. I designed these cars so every piece can be cross cut from standard molding strips which I purchased at Home Depot®.
The shapes required include:
Cove molding – 11/16” x 11/16”
Screen door molding – 1/4” x 3/4”
Dowels – 1” diameter
Quarter round – 11/16” x 11/16”
Lattice – 1/4” x 2”
Pine boards – 3/4” x 1-1/2”
Rather than purchase the 1/4” x 1-1/2” lattice you could just rip and re-saw it on your table saw from 3/4” stock. Likewise, you could rip the 3/4” x 1-1/2” pine boards from scraps around your shop. This might save a little money over purchasing pre-made molding. But the point is that these cars can be made from standard shapes so that those without access to a table saw can still have their children make them.
Besides a miter box, tools required include a drill press with a 5/32” twist bit, a drill press vise, a scratch awl, a coping saw, a try square, a ruler and a pencil. Supplies include masking tape, sandpaper, 3/4” diameter wood wheels (with 3/16” diameter center hole) and 5/32” axle pegs.
What is Wood Molding?
Wood moldings are long pieces of wood which have been milled (cut or shaped) into special shapes. Some shapes are shown in figure 1. The round shape in figure 1 is referred to as a dowel.
You have seen many types of wood moldings, but you may not have thought too much about them. You’ve all seen door moldings, they are used around doors and windows.
Picture frames are another place you will find wood moldings. Picture frame molding comes in many different shapes.
Moldings in different shapes can be used to make toys and other wood projects. If you visit a lumberyard, look at the variety of moldings available.
The cars in this unit are all made from “1 x 2” wood boards, wood dowels and wood moldings which are available from almost any lumberyard. Because the moldings are already milled to shape, you need only cut them to length. After they are cut to length you will sand them, drill any holes required, and assemble the parts with glue.
Start by Making the Body
The body of each of these trucks is exactly the same size. The only difference is that the log truck has six extra holes on each side for the wood pegs.
You can cut the bodies from a “1 x 2” board. This piece isn’t really a molding, but it is a common size board. It should measure 3/4” thick x 1-1/2” wide.
Start by checking the end of your wood with a try square to be sure it is square. Saw the end square in the miter box if necessary.
All truck bodies are 2-1/4” long. Measure and mark a line 2-1/4” from the end. Draw a perpendicular line with the try square and saw to length.
Sand your wood body and write your name on the bottom.
Locate the holes for the axle pegs and the headlights and taillights. You can measure and mark these locations with a ruler or you can locate them by using a 3/16” spacer block and a 1/2” spacer block. To mark, for example, the distance the holes are from the bottom of the body, just lay the spacer block next to the body and draw a line.
To mark the distance the holes are from each end of the body lay the body on end and use a 1/2” spacer block to draw the line.
Mark the locations of all holes with a scratch awl.
Mount a 5/32” twist bit in the drill press chuck. To drill the holes for the pegs that hold the wheels, lay the wood on its side and clamp it in a drill press vise. Drill the holes all the way through.
To drill the holes for the headlights and taillights, clamp the wood on end and drill the holes 3/4” deep (or just a bit deeper to be sure the wood pegs will go down all the way).
If you are making the log truck, mark the location of the pegs on each side but do not drill those holes until after you have pounded the headlights and taillights into place.
Cutting the Remaining Pieces to Length
All trucks use one piece of cove molding which must be cut to a length of 1-1/2”. Saw this piece to length in the miter box.
Sand the ends.
Depending on the truck, you will need to cut the remaining parts from quarter round molding, 1” diameter wood dowel, screen door molding, 1/4” x 2” lattice or additional cove molding. Choose which truck you want to make and cut the parts required. The drawings (which will be posted in the blog #30) will show which moldings to use and how long to cut each piece.
Watch for blog 31 which will cover assembling the cars and will include all necessary drawings.
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Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 28
Working with a 7 Year Old in the Woodshop
In blog #14 I shared some of the woodworking projects my 6 year old grandson, Griffin, made from scrap wood he found around the shop. Griffin recently turned 7 and he is still making things – lots of things!
Although he hasn’t mastered nailing or sawing yet, he certainly knows how to glue wood scraps together!
What Griffin is very good at is using his imagination and in selecting colors which add life and interest to his projects. His imagination allows him to visualize the finished project in his head. Once he has assembled his projects he adds color using markers.
Griffin has his own office – a cubicle in our call center here at Meisel Hardware Specialties. He knows where the scrap box is in our woodshop and uses these scraps together with colors or drawings to make items to sell in our showroom. His art is quite popular with customers. Prices range from ten cents to a few dollars. He had some help lettering on the rocket ship but completed all other projects below without any help.
I hope you enjoy the photos. My hope is that you will be inspired to encourage your child to begin what could very well become a life long hobby.
Free-form sculpture
Ladybug
Two faces
3-d project
Griffin’s classroom at school
Rocket ship
Penguin and 2 faces
Dinosaur
Colors and a face
Mom, Dad and Griffin
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
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Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #27
A Visit to Rick’s Restoration
I’m straying a little bit from my usual subject of Woodworking for Kids, but I wanted to share my trip to visit a person who does wood and metal refinishing.
I’m sure many of you have watched a show called Pawn Stars on the History channel. It’s about a pawn shop in Las Vegas, Nevada called Gold & Silver Pawn. Many interesting things come through the door, all of which the owners want to either pawn or sell to the pawn shop.
Occasionally the pawn shop owners purchase an item that is in rough shape and needs to be restored. When they do, they often take it to Rick Dale, a restoration specialist who owns a business called Rick’s Restorations.
Rick specializes in “classic restoration” which he defines as the art of returning a classic object to its original state just like when it was new. To do a classic restoration you must make sure that all the parts being replaced are specific to the object that you are restoring.
Rick has been in the restoration business for over 20 years. He restores many unusual items. I thought it would be fun to visit his shop. The only problem was that his shop was over 1600 miles away. But a few months ago the planets must have lined up because my wife, Pat, asked if I would be interested in taking a trip to Las Vegas. “You bet!” I said. What a nice get-away from the Minnesota winter! Pat likes the casinos while I prefer seeing the sights. I began planning which sites I would visit. Rick’s Restorations would be at the top of my list.
Our lodging was near the center of the strip, so I took the monorail north all the way to the end of the line. This brought me just one block from a scooter rental shop. While some people would feel a small scooter would be a dangerous way to get around in the heavy traffic, I found it to be an inexpensive and fun way to travel. And for the number of miles I was planning to ride, taxi fare would have been out of sight. The scooter could go where I wanted, when I wanted. Besides, I like two-wheel transportation.
I had called Rick’s shop on Friday and talked with his wife, Kelly. She told me Rick was at another location filming for an upcoming show but that he would be back by 5 p.m. and that I could stop by then.
My scooter only went about 35 miles per hour, so I had to stay on the back roads. What would have been a 20 minute ride by freeway was more like a 40 minute ride by scooter. The shop is in back of Rick’s house. He bought the property, originally a farm, years ago. He adopted the old barn to suit his restoration business. It is divided into a number of different rooms, each with a different purpose. When an item is brought in for restoration it begins at the south end of the barn – the tear down room. Photos are taken as it is disassembled. They are used for reference when the machine is finally ready for re-assembly.
After disassembly the item is moved through a series of specialized rooms, one for sand blasting, another for painting, another for metal polishing. There is even an area for fabricating missing parts such as rusted out sections of Coke machines. After these and other specialized operations the item being restored finally ends up in an area set up for the re-assembly.
I was amazed at the number of projects lined up and waiting to be restored. There were lots and lots of Coke machines as well as a number of antique refrigerators. His driveway and storage area were filled with such machines. Some items were delivered by their owners, others were crated and shipped to Rick’s shop by motor freight.
Rick’s team has the ability and experience to restore a wide range of different types of projects. Examples include barber chairs, bicycles, candy machines, cash registers, diner booths, cars, fire call boxes, juke boxes, pedal cars, photo booths, roulette wheels, slot machines, telephone booths and so on.
I asked about an Indian motorcycle which was beautifully restored except for a missing motor. Rick told me the motor had a cracked cylinder barrel and that he needed replacement parts. It just happened that I have the identical motorcycle with good motor parts. Rick contacted me after my visit and we talked about my “donor” parts.
Photo Caption: Rick’s wife was kind enough to take my picture next to Rick.
Besides the barn, there are a number of unique buildings. One of the most interesting is a 1930’s Sinclair gas station.
The last stop on my tour was Rick’s showroom. I saw gas pumps, amusement machines, arcade machines, juke boxes and of course Coke machines and refrigerators, each one gleaming – the result of an immaculate restoration.
Rick seems to really like the unusual. He showed me a 1909 strength machine he had just finished.
Visiting Rick’s shop was definitely the highlight of my trip. I hopped back on the scooter and rode back to our condo. January nights cool off quickly in the desert. A warmer jacket would have been nice. Pat met me for a late dinner. We both made plans for the next day. She planned to try her luck at another casino. I had quite different plans.
Early Saturday morning I hopped back on the scooter and headed to the Antique Motorcycle Auction at the exhibit hall in the South Point Hotel & Casino about 7 miles south on Las Vegas Boulevard. I checked out the 500 antique and classic motorcycles to be auctioned that day. It was interesting to see the prices they brought, but since I hadn’t planned to purchase anything, I only stayed about two hours.
My next stop would be the Gold & Silver Pawn shop located on the other end of Las Vegas Boulevard, about 4 miles north of our condo. Apparently the television show has brought them a great deal of notoriety because every single space in the parking lot was taken. There were several taxies waiting while their passengers zipped into the pawn shop to have a look around. I piloted my little scooter into a corner of the lot right next to the entrance. Another advantage of riding a small scooter! Like the parking lot, the shop itself was packed with visitors, mostly tourists.
Because it was Saturday, none of the family members were working, but it was fascinating to see the assortment of unusual items for sale. I broke down and bought a Chumlee for President t-shirt! (Okay, you have to watch the show to understand.) While checking out the merchandise I recognized several items which I had seen featured on past episodes of the show.
The next item on my list was the Neon Museum. I jumped back on my scooter and headed further north on Las Vegas Boulevard, just past downtown. The Neon Museum is easy to spot. Giant neon signs tower above the fence. Many of the old casinos were represented. Although the museum was closed (perhaps because it was a Saturday) it was none-the-less an interesting trip back in Las Vegas history!
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #26
Miter Box Cars - Part 2
Drill the Axle Holes and the Window Holes
Set the drill press to between 2000 and 2500 RPM and install a 5/32” twist bit. Set the drill press to drill a through hole. Because you will be drilling all the way through, place a piece of scrap wood under your work.
Drill the 5/32” holes for the axles and also drill a 5/32” hole in the center of each of the window holes.
Re-set the drill press to between 1000 and 2000 RPM and install a 3/8” brad point bit. (A forstner bit could also be used.)
Because the 3/8” bit is large and the wood vehicle is small, the wood should be clamped in a drill press vise before drilling. IMPORTANT: You will be enlarging the 5/32” window holes to 3/8”. Drill down only about half way through your wood. Don’t try and drill all the way through. If you do, the bit will tear out your wood as it breaks through the bottom side.
After drilling the 3/8” window holes half way down, turn off the drill press, turn your wood over, and retighten it in the drill press vise. You can now finish drilling the window holes from the other side.
Sand the sides of the vehicle to remove any roughness caused by drilling the holes.
If you are working with other students, be sure to write your name on the bottom of the project.
Apply Finish
Paint the body of the vehicle a bright color. Use a small brush to paint around the inside of the windows. You do not need to paint the bottom. Be sure to work on newspapers.
Set aside to dry. Painting the wheels is optional. A clear finish looks good on the wheels.
Assemble the vehicle
After the finish is dry, it’s time to assemble the wheels and axles.
With the decorative side of the wheel facing down on your work table, hammer an axle into two of your wheels.
Slip the axle and wheel assemblies through the axle holes in the vehicle and tap the remaining wheels on the other end of the axles.
NOTE: If the wheels and axles do not fit tight, it will be necessary to add a small amount of glue. A toothpick can be used to help spread the glue on the inside of the wheel hole. Be careful not to glue the axle or wheel to the body or they won’t turn!
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
#25 Blog
Miter Box Cars
By Paul Meisel
Children love making these simple cars. But the real purpose I had for designing them was to provide more experience in measuring, sanding, drilling and using the miter box. By this time your students will have already had some experience using these techniques and tools. Now they can put what they have already learned to use to make fun projects.
It will be necessary to provide strips of 3/4” x 1-1/2” wide wood for these projects. Rip several strips on your table saw for the children to use.
In addition to the wood strips you will need to have the following materials and equipment on hand:
#2 lead pencil
Ruler or measuring tape
C-clamp or spring clamp
Try square
Combination square or speed square
Drill press
Drill press vise
3/8” brad point bit (for windows)
5/32” twist bit (for axle holes)
1/8” diameter x 1-5/16” wood axles (dowels)
Wood wheels – 7/8” diameter with 1/8” hole
Miter box and saw
Sandpaper
*Spacer blocks
*Spacer blocks are easy to make using a table saw. They should be made before hand so the students can use them to mark the center of the holes to be drilled. They are easy to make, just cut them on a table saw to the sizes needed. Important: Be sure to label the thickness of each spacer. This way there is less chance the spacers will get thrown away. To label them you can either write on them with a medium tip felt marker or make a paper label and tape it in place as shown in photos 11 – 16.
Cut the Body to Size Using the Miter Box
Select a strip of lumber that has been pre-cut to 1-1/2” wide. Use a square to check that one end is square. Saw the end square in the miter box if necessary.
Study the drawing of the vehicles to see the size you will be cutting it to.
Using a sharp lead pencil and a ruler, measure 2-1/2” from the end of the strip of wood and mark the point.
Use a square to draw a perpendicular line 2-1/2” from the end. This will be the length of your vehicle.
Measure 3/4” from the end to mark the angle to be cut on the front of the vehicle.
Using a combination square or a speed square as your guide, draw the 45 degree cutting line.
Use a miter box to saw the 45 degree angle.
Finish by sawing the vehicle to length.
Sanding
Sand the vehicle with coarse followed by fine sandpaper.
Measure and mark the Axle Holes and the Window Holes
Decide how many window holes you would like to have. You can drill one window to make a cargo van. Two or three windows make a passenger van.
One way to measure and mark the locations of the axle holes and window holes is with a ruler. The locations of the holes are shown on the drawing.
It is only necessary to locate the center of each hole.
Another way to mark the location of the centers of the holes is to use blocks of wood that have been pre-cut to certain thicknesses. This method is faster and usually more accurate than measuring with a ruler to find the center of each hole.
For example, the centers of the axle holes are 3/16” from the bottom of the vehicle. To mark a line 3/16” from the bottom of the vehicle using a spacer block, lay a 3/16” thick spacer next to the vehicle and draw a pencil line as shown in the photo.
The centers of the windows are 1/2” from the top of the vehicle. To mark a line 1/2” from the top, turn the vehicle upside down and lay a 1/2” thick spacer next to it. Mark the line as shown in the photo.
The center of the rear axle hole is 1/2” from the back of the vehicle. To mark a line 1/2” from the back of the vehicle, lay the vehicle on its back next to a 1/2” thick spacer. Mark the line with a pencil.
The center of the hole for the middle window is 1” from the back of the vehicle. You can use a 1” thick spacer, or you could use two 1/2” spacers, one on top of the other.
The center of the front window is 1-1/2” from the back of the vehicle. You can use either a 1-1/2” spacer or you could use a 1” spacer and a 1/2” spacer stacked on top of one another to mark the 1-1/2” line.
The center of the front axle hole is 1/2” from the front of the vehicle. To mark this location place the vehicle on its nose and use a 1/2” spacer block to mark the center of the front axle hole.
Use a scratch awl to mark the centers of all holes.
Blog #26 will cover drilling all the holes, painting the vehicle bodies, and installing the wheels and axles.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 24
Lollipop Tree Part 2
Make the 1-3/4” Square Tree Trunk Piece
The tree trunk piece is 3/4” thick x 1-3/4” wide x 1-3/4” long. To make this piece, begin with a length of stock which has been ripped to 1-3/4” in width. Check one end of the wood with a try square to be sure it is square, then measure and mark a point 1-1/4” from the end.
Saw this piece to length in the miter box.
You will need to drill a 17/64” hole in the center of this piece. To find the center, place a ruler or straight edge from one corner to the opposite corner and draw a short and very light pencil line near the center. Now switch the straight edge to the opposite corners and draw another short line. The crossed lines will show the center.
Mark the center with a scratch awl.
Install a 17/64” drill in the drill press chuck. Since you will be drilling all the way through the wood, place a piece of scrap wood on the drill press table. You can hold the trunk piece with your fingers while you drill it, but you must have a firm grip on the wood.
Drill all the way through.
Make the 4-1/2” x 4-1/2” Base
The base of the project is too wide to cut in some miter boxes. For this reason your teacher or supervisor may pre-cut this piece for you on a table saw. If so, the only thing you will need to do is drill a 1/4” hole in the center. The hole should be 5/8” deep. Proceed as follows:
Use a ruler or straight edge to find and mark the center of the base in the same manner as above.
Mark the center with a scratch awl.
To set up the drill press for this hole, install a 1/4” drill bit in the drill press chuck and set either the depth stop or the table height so the drill bit will stop when it reaches a depth of 5/8”. Now drill the hole.
Prepare the Parts for Painting
Sand all the parts of the project so they are ready for painting.
Apply Wood Finish
Before painting, spread newspaper to protect the table top. Make sure you have the colors of acrylic (water based) paint – green and brown are recommended, a paint brush, triangle drying sticks, some rags and cans with water for cleaning brushes.
Put on a protective apron or an old long sleeve shirt to protect your clothes from accidental paint drips.
Begin with the branches. Paint all sides of each branch. Place the wet branches on triangle drying sticks to keep them from sticking to the newspaper.
Note that the triangle drying sticks will leave marks in the paint. For this reason, never lay the branches on their sides. Set the branches on the triangle drying sticks so any blemish in the paint will be on the bottom of each branch where it will be much less noticeable after the project is assembled.
Paint the base and trunk piece brown. These pieces do not have to be painted on the bottom. Set these pieces on the triangle drying sticks to dry.
Glue the 1/4” wood dowel into the hole in the round ball and paint the ball yellow. The top part of the dowel will show after final assembly, so you will need to paint about an inch of the dowel (just under the ball) yellow.
After the paint has dried decide if a second coat will be needed to cover the wood. When the paint has dried you will be ready to assemble the project.
Final Assembly
Slide the shortest branch up almost to the top of the dowel. Then slide on the next longest branch.
Continue in this manner until all branches are in place. Next slip on the trunk piece.
Put a few drops of glue in the hole in the base piece and glue the dowel into the hole.
After the glue dries, arrange the branches in a spiral.
Your finished lollipop tree is ready to load with lollipops.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 23
Lollipop Tree
Making this lollipop tree provides more practice measuring, using the miter box and using the drill press. This project uses small lollipops called Dum Dums made by the Spangler Candy Company. If you use larger size lollipops it may be necessary to make the branches longer or make the holes in the ends of the branches larger.
Where does the word Lollipop come from? This term is made up of two words. The word lolly is British slang for candy. The British use the word pop to mean to move suddenly. For example a common British expression is: “I’ll pop in to see you.” They might also say, “Pop that into your mouth.” So we see that the word lollipop comes from the combination of the British words lolly and pop. In other words a piece of candy that you pop into your mouth.
As can be seen in the photo, the lollipop tree project holds 18 lollipops.
The lollipop tree is made up of a base, a trunk, nine branches, a wood dowel and a round ball.
Start by Making the Branches.
To make the branches you will need to cut nine pieces of 3/4” x 3/4” strips of wood to the lengths shown in Fig. 2.
Begin by measuring and marking one of the branches to length. In Figure 3 the 2-1/2” long branch is being marked on the wood strip.
Cut the branch to length using a miter box.
Next measure and mark a distance of 3” and cut the next longest branch. Each branch is 1/2” longer than the branch above it. Continue measuring, marking and cutting until you have made all 9 branches.
Using a measuring tape or ruler, locate the center of each branch and make a light mark with a sharp lead pencil.
With a square, draw a light pencil line across.
After you have marked the center of all nine pieces, arrange them as shown in figure 8. Since each piece is 1/2” shorter (or longer) than the piece next to it, arranging the branches in this way will make it easy to see if you made any mistakes in cutting the pieces to length. Also check that the center marks are all in a straight line. Re-make any pieces that are not the right length. Re-mark any pieces in which the center has not been marked accurately.
Prepare the drill press for drilling the hole in the center of each of the branch pieces.
The next step is to drill a 17/64” hole through the center of each branch. This hole is just a little bigger than the 1/4” diameter dowel rod. The reason the hole has to be slightly larger than the dowel is so the fit won’t be too tight.
Set the drill press speed to between 2000 and 2500 RPM. Select the 17/64” bit from the twist bit holder and install it in the drill press chuck.
Because you will be drilling all the way through each branch, you will want to place a piece of scrap wood on the drill press table. The scrap wood will prevent the drill bit from tearing out the underside of your wood as the bit comes through.
Clamp a piece of wood 3/8” from the center of the bit to act as a guide. This guide is called a fence. By placing your wood against this fence, you can be sure your hole will be in the center of each branch.
Drilling the Center Holes in Each Branch.
Place one of your branches against the fence and slide it until the drill bit is over the center line mark.
Be sure there is no sawdust between your wood and the fence. Your wood will not fit tight against the fence if there is sawdust in the way. Have a chip brush handy to brush away sawdust as you proceed to drill your branches. With the centerline of the wood directly under the drill bit, turn on the drill press, hold the wood with your left hand and lower the feed handle with your right hand. Drill all the way through the branch. Stop drilling as soon as you feel that the bit has gone through your wood.
Brush away sawdust with the chip brush and position another branch.
Continue drilling a hole through the center of each of the other branches.
Drill a Hole in Each End of Each Branch.
A hole must be drilled in each end of each of the nine branches. These holes will be used to hold lollipops. Set up the drill press as follows: Install a 3/16” twist bit in the drill press check. You can use the same fence you clamped to the drill press table when you drilled the center hole, except now you will clamp a stop block to that fence so all holes will be drilled 3/8” from each end of each branch.
Now drill a hole in each end of each branch. IMPORTANT: Drill the holes on the same side of the wood as the center hole. All holes must face in the same direction.
Remember, sawdust will prevent your wood from going up tight against the fence and stop block. Brush away sawdust after you drill each hole.
This project will be completed in the next blog.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
#22 Blog
Hanging Planter - Part 2
7. Gluing and Nailing the Parts
A. The first step is to glue and nail the seven bottom pieces to two of the side pieces. Use masking tape or duct tape to hold the two side pieces in position on the top of your workbench. These pieces must be 8-1/4” apart and parallel to each other. Be sure to tape them down accurately. You can use a carpenter’s square to be sure they are straight across from each other. Use a ruler or measuring tape to check accuracy.
B. Select one of the bottom pieces and place it on top of the pieces that you just taped down. Cut a piece of 3/4” x 3/4” wood 2 to 3 inches long to make a spacer. Place the spacer (on end) in the corner as shown to locate the position of this bottom piece. Hold the spacer on end with the tip of your finger as shown. The ends of the 11-1/4” pieces should be even with the sides of the spacer. Important: Be sure the drilled holes in the bottom pieces are horizontal. With a lead pencil, mark the nail location on each end.
C. Remove the 11-1/4” piece and place it on scrap wood. Pound the 1-1/4” wire brad down until the tip of the brad just breaks through the underside of your wood. Drive one brad on each end.
D. Place a large drop of glue on each end and, using the positioning block, re-position the piece. Push the tips of the brads into the taped down pieces of wood. Move the spacer block out of the way and nail down the brads.
E. Glue and nail another bottom piece to the other side in the same manner.
F. Glue and nail another bottom piece 3/4” away. Use one of the other bottom pieces as a spacer.
G. Continue gluing and nailing until all seven bottom pieces are attached.
H. Turn the assembly over. Once again use a scrap of 3/4” wood to act as a positioning block to align the corners. Glue and nail another side piece in place.
I. Continue gluing and nailing side pieces. A longer positioning block will be needed as you add more side pieces.
J. As you continue to add more side pieces, check the fit of the flower pot to be sure it fits.
K. Cut a ten foot long piece of heavy twine (if using thin twine as shown in the photo, cut a 20 foot piece and fold it in half). Thread the twine through the holes on all bottom pieces on one side of your project. TIP: Tape the twine to the end of a piece of wire or a 1/8” wood dowel to make a giant needle.
L. String another piece of twine through the other side. Pull up on the four ends of twine until they are even and tie the ends in a knot.
Fill your flower pot with soil and seeds (or transplant a plant). Fit the flower pot in your hanging project and hang the project from a tree branch or overhead hook.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #21
Hanging Planter - Part 1
This project provides more practice in measuring accurately, cutting wood to length in a miter box, setting up the drill press and nailing.
You will be building a useful project – a hanging planter. The project is made from 3/4” x 3/4” wood strips. After cutting pieces to length, you will assemble them with water resistant glue and wire brads.
Skills including measuring, using a miter box and practice nailing short nails into a board have been covered in previous lessons. In order to complete this project you will need to practice one new skill – that of using longer nails (1-1/4” x 17 gauge wire brads) to nail two pieces of wood together.
Practical: Nailing Boards using 1-1/4” Wire Brads
Complete the following Nailing Exercise
1. Measure and mark a piece of 3/4” x 3/4” stock to ten inches long. Cut this piece to length using the miter box. Measure, mark and cut a second 10” long piece. Write your name on both pieces.
2. Using 1-1/4” x 17 gauge wire brads and a 12 to 16 ounce hammer, practice driving the wire brads into the wood strips, nailing one strip to the other.
3. If you bend a wire brad, stop pounding immediately, pull out the brad and discard it.
4. This practical is complete when you can demonstrate driving 20 brads, one after another, without bending any brads. If you need more space to practice, turn the two pieces of wood over and drive brads in from the other side. If your wood splits, cut two new pieces and continue practicing.
Making the Hanging Planter Project
1. To make this project you will need 19 pieces of 3/4” x 3/4” stock, each piece will be 11-1/4” long. To begin, select a piece of stock that your instructor has already ripped to strips 3/4” x 3/4”. Inspect the strip of stock to be sure it is straight and that there are no major lumber defects such as knots that might be difficult to drive a wire brad into.
With a square, check the end to be sure it is square. If the end isn’t square or is damaged in some way, cut the defective end off in a miter box so you can begin with a square end.
Measure and mark a point 11-1/4” from the end of the 3/4” x 3/4” strip of stock. With a try square and sharp pencil, draw a line across one edge.
Cut the first piece of stock to length in the miter box.
Continue measuring, marking and cutting 11-1/4” long pieces. You will need to cut 19 pieces.
Seven of the pieces will be used to make the bottom of the project. You will need to drill a hole in each end of each of these pieces. When the project is complete, these holes will be used to string the twine. To mark the location of the holes, measure and mark a point 3/4” from one end of one piece only. Use a try square to extend the line.
Locate the center of the line and mark the point with a scratch awl.
This piece will be used to set up a drilling jig on the drill press.
Prepare the Drill Press
1. Install a 1/4” twist bit in the drill press chuck and set the spindle speed to between 2000 and 2500 RPM. Be sure there is a piece of scrap wood on the drill press table and drill the 1/4” hole through.
Set up a Drilling Jig on the Drill Press Table
1. With the switch off and the power cord unplugged, lower the drill press feed lever until the drill bit is centered inside the hole in your wood. If your drill press has a spindle lock, lock the spindle in place. Otherwise you can have another person hold the feed lever in position. Clamp a guide against the edge of your wood strip. Clamp another block to the guide.
This guide and stop block will allow you to drill a hole exactly where needed in each end of each of the seven bottom pieces without any further measuring. Just slip the end of the strip in place and drill the 1/4” hole through. Turn the strip of wood around and drill the hole in the other end.
Drill all seven pieces of wood in this manner.
Important – be sure to drill the holes through from the same side of each piece! Brush away sawdust as necessary so your wood will fit tight against the drilling jig.
Part 2 will cover assembling and finishing the project.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #20
Decoupage Cribbage Board – Part 2
Drilling Holes for the Peg Storage
Support your cribbage board in a vise with the end to be drilled facing up. Tighten a 7/64” twist drill in the chuck of the hand drill and wrap masking tape 3/4” from the tip to serve as a depth gauge. Drill the center hole which will be the pilot hole for the wood screw. You must drill straight! Have someone else watch you to help make sure you are holding the drill straight.
The 4 holes for storing the cribbage pegs are 3/8” diameter by 1” deep. A 3/8” brad point bit and an electric hand drill can be used to drill these holes. Attach a depth gauge such as a metal depth collar or a piece of tape around the bit 1 inch from the end.
Drill the 1” deep holes.
Make the Peg Cover
Begin with a 1/8” thick x 3/4” wide strip of wood. Measure and mark a line 4” from one end. Saw the cover to length using a miter box.
Locate the center of the cover. You can find the center by drawing lines from corner to corner.
Mark the center with a scratch awl.
Drill the screw clearance hole all the way through the peg cover. You can use either a drill press or a hand drill.
Countersink the hole so the top of the flat head screw will be even with the top surface of the cover.
Sand the corners to slightly round them over. Sand the entire cover smooth.
Wipe an oil finish on the cover. Place it on triangle drying sticks until the finish dries.
Install the cover with a 3/4” x #6 gauge flat head wood screw. Tighten the screw just enough so the cover can be rotated to open it but not so loose that it will not stay in position.
Rotate the cover open, insert two cribbage pegs in each hole, then close the cover.
Cut two pieces of sticky back felt 2-1/2” x 4”.
Peel off the backing and press one piece of felt on each end.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #19
Decoupage Cribbage Board
Equipped with knowledge of how to finish wood in decoupage finish, my students wanted to make another project which used this finishing method.
Read the following information about the game of cribbage:
Cribbage is said to be one of the most popular games in the English speaking world. It is played with a deck of cards and a cribbage board with pegs that can be moved from hole to hole to keep score.
To make this cribbage board you will need to drill a large number of 1/8” holes on the top of the board which will be used for the pegs. You will also be drilling four larger holes in the end of the board to store the pegs. You will be making a cover to keep the pegs in these storage compartments.
After you finish making your cribbage board you will want to learn how to play. The instructions for playing cribbage are available on the internet or from books in the library. Or better yet, have a friend who already plays cribbage teach you how to play.
Types of wood which can be used to make a cribbage board
Cribbage boards can be made from almost any type of wood. If you use a hardwood such as oak or walnut, you will probably want to apply a clear finish to show off the beauty of the wood grain. Less expensive wood such as pine or popular would be perfect for this decoupage project because the surface of the wood will be covered by the decoupage finish. As with the practice board in the last lesson, you should choose pictures of things that interest you. The surface of the cribbage board is large enough so you can overlap several pictures and make an interesting art form. This is called a collage.
Wood preparation and sanding
Your teacher will provide a piece of 3/4” wood that is pre-cut to 4” wide x 15” long. Sand the surfaces, edges and ends with coarse followed by fine sandpaper.
When you are finished sanding, select the best surface to use for the top and write your name on the other side (the bottom) of your board.
Applying Finish to your Board
The decoupage finish should be applied before drilling the holes for the pegs. Select the pictures you want to use and position them on the top surface of your wood (without decoupage finish) to get an idea how they will look. Remember, you can use many pictures, overlapping them to form a collage.
After you have selected the pictures you will be ready to begin. The steps for applying decoupage finish to your cribbage board are the same as when you practiced using decoupage finish on scrap wood.
Lets Get Started
1.) Make sure you have all the materials, supplies and tools you will need. Check off each item on the list below before beginning:
Materials and Supplies:
___Wood for the cribbage board (3/4” x 4” x 15”)
___Wood for the cribbage peg cover (1/8” x 3/4” x 2”)
___Wood screw 3/4” x #6 gauge flat head
___Cribbage pegs – two of each in 4 different colors
___Cribbage board drilling template
___Wood dowel – 1/8” diameter x 1” long (2)
___Pictures from magazines
___Sandpaper – coarse and fine
___Paint brush – 1” – 1-1/2”
___Decoupage Finish
___1” or 2” paint brush
___Damp rag or paper towel
___Triangle drying sticks
___Clean white paper
___Water and container for cleaning brush
Tools:
___Drill press
___Hand drill
___Twist bits – 7/64”, 1/8”, & 9/64”
___Brad point bit – 3/8”
___Countersink
___Scratch awl
___ Pliers
___Scissors
2.) Cut out the picture or pictures you want to use.
3.) Check that the surface of your wood is clean and free from sawdust. Wipe any sawdust off with a damp cloth or paper towel, but try not to get the board too wet.
4.) Working on clean white paper, brush a coat of the decoupage finish to the back of each picture. Use only enough finish to cover the back of each picture. Too much finish will cause your pictures to wrinkle. Important – do not use newspaper because the ink from the newspaper will transfer to your pictures and spoil them.
5.) Place your pictures on the wood. Smooth them out with your fingers or with a damp cloth or paper towel. Try to work out any wrinkles by carefully rubbing from the center of the picture outward toward the edges.
When you are done, set your cribbage board aside to dry.
6.) After the finished had dried, brush a coat of decoupage finish over the entire surface of your wood including the sides and ends. It is not necessary to finish the bottom. Set your wood on triangle drying sticks to dry.
7.) Several coats of finish may be necessary to achieve a smooth surface. Make sure that each coat is dry before brushing on the next.
Important:
After you have brushed on the last coat of decoupage finish you must set your board aside until it is completely dry. This may take several weeks. Even though the finish may feel dry when you touch it, the drill bit will lift the finish causing small white rings around each hole. Don’t take a chance on spoiling your project by rushing to get it done.
Drilling the Holes for the Pegs
The best way to drill the holes for the pegs accurately is by using a cribbage board template.
The template will insure that the holes are spaced precisely in line.
The holes on one end of the template in figure 7 are covered with tape. These holes, if drilled, could be used to keep track of player’s scores. They are not needed if you keep track of score on a separate piece of paper. For this project we have chosen not to drill these holes but instead to drill storage holes in the end of the board. The tape covering the holes works as a reminder not to drill these holes.
If you try to drill your holes without a drilling template it is likely that the wood grain will cause your drill bit to wander out of line. This is because wood grain has alternating soft and hard rings. These rings, called annular rings (annular from the word annual or once a year) are the growth rings of the tree.
Drilling Holes Using a Drilling Template
The first step is to set up the drill press. Mount a 1/8” twist bit in the drill press and set the speed to 2400 – 3200 RPM. Set the depth stop (or the table height) to drill a 1/2” deep hole.
Place the drilling template on top of your wood. Tape it at each end to hold the template in place to hold it temporarily.
Drill two holes – one hole on each end of your board. You can choose any hole, just so the holes are on opposite ends of the template. Do not drill in the area taped off on the template.
With a hammer, tap a short piece of 1/8” diameter wood dowel into each hole. These dowels will keep the template from moving while you drill the remaining holes.
You can remove and discard the tape you used to hold the template in place while you drilled the first two holes.
Continue to drill through each hole in the template. Pay attention not to skip any holes. Stop from time to time to brush away sawdust.
When you have finished drilling all holes, remove the wood dowels.
Laying out the Holes for a Storage Compartment
One small hole (for the wood screw) and four large holes (for peg storage) are drilled in the end of the board.
The locations of these holes are shown in the drawing.
With a ruler and sharp lead pencil locate and mark the center of each hole.
Use a scratch awl to start the holes to be drilled.
NOTE: Another way to locate and mark the center of each hole is to tape the pattern to the end of your board. Then just mark through the pattern with a scratch awl.
Part 2 of this blog will cover drilling the holes in the end of the board, making the peg cover, and finishing the cribbage board.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 18
Decoupage
The process of decoupage provides an interesting finish for wood projects. The project described below is inexpensive to do but had a high interest with the students. They liked the fact that they could choose any image they wanted from a magazine or catalog.
Start by cutting a 4” x 4” scrap of 3/4” thick wood for each child. Have some magazines available but also ask the kids to bring in old magazines of images they are interested in. My students especially liked pictures of motorcycles, cars, flowers and animals.
Decoupage finish is available at craft stores and stores that carry art supplies. There are formulas to make your own on the internet. Most are simply white glue diluted with water.
Allow about 1/2 hour for this exercise.
Definition: Decoupage – [French de - out + couper - to cut] A craft or art form created by cutting out pictures and gluing them to wood, cardboard or other material and then covering them with several coats of clear finish.
What is Decoupage?
Decoupage is the art of cutting out pictures, gluing them to another surface, and covering them with several coats of clear finish. It is easy and fun to do. Begin by looking for pictures of things you like. You can cut pictures from gift wrapping paper, catalogs, magazines or even use photographs.
Decoupage can be done on many different surfaces including boxes, wood cut-outs, lamps, or even a table top!
The word decoupage means to cut out. The art of decoupage was popular in France as early as the 1600’s, although similar decorating methods were used in other countries hundreds of years earlier.
Practical – Decoupage on a practice piece of wood.
1.) Make sure you have all the materials and supplies you will need. Check off each item on the list below before beginning:
_____ Piece of scrap wood approximately 4” x 4”
_____ A picture such as from a magazine
_____ Scissors
_____ Sandpaper
_____ Decoupage finish
_____ 1” or 1-1/2” paint brush
_____ Damp rag or paper towel
_____ Clean white paper
_____ Triangle drying sticks
2.) Cut out a picture at least a little smaller than your scrap of wood. You can cut around the shape on your picture or simply use the whole picture.
Caption – Cut a picture the same size or a little smaller than your piece of wood.
Caption: You can cut the picture square or trim it as above. Don’t try and cut small details around your picture. They can break off, fold underneath, or generally be difficult to work with.
3.) Check that the surface of your wood is clean and free from sawdust. Sand it smooth if needed. Wipe any sawdust off with a damp cloth or damp paper towel. Write your name on the bottom.
Caption: Your wood should be sanded smooth. Wipe off any sawdust with a damp towel.
4.) Brush the decoupage finish on the back of your picture. Work on clean white paper Don’t work on newspaper. The ink could transfer to the front of your picture.
5.) Place your picture on the wood. Be careful not to bend or crumple your picture. Center it on the wood and smooth our any bubbles with your fingers or with a damp cloth or paper towel. Rub from the center of the picture out toward the edges.
6.) Let the finish dry at least an hour.
7.) When the finish is dry, brush another coat of decoupage finish over the entire surface of your wood including the sides and edges (but not the bottom).
Brush on a third coat of decoupage finish.
9.) Continue to apply additional coats of finish until you have a very smooth surface. It could take four, five or more coats!
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 17
Measuring and Marking Out - Part 2
A Close Look at Rulers and Measuring Tapes
Rulers and measuring tapes are divided by small lines. Usually only the inch lines (or for metric rules the centimeter lines) have a number. Each numbered space equals one inch (or one centimeter). There are other divisions (markings of equal distance) on the ruler. Usually each inch is divided into four (4), eight (8), and sixteen (16) equal parts (metric rulers usually divide a centimeter into 10 parts). Because it would be too difficult to squeeze in the written fraction for each division line, these lines are made on different lengths. This makes them easy to spot.
Let’s say the rectangle below is exactly one inch long. (Actually it is larger that an inch.) The line in the center divides the inch into two (2) equal parts. Each part is 1/2” long.
Slightly shorter lines divide the 1/2” into two (2) equal parts. Each part is one fourth of an inch or 1/4 in. or 1/4”. The 1/2” and 1/4” lines divide the inch into four equal parts 0 each 1/4” long.
Still shorter lines divide each of the 1/4” parts in half again. (Each of these parts is one eighth of an inch or 1/8 in. or 1/8”. Notice that these new lines are shorter. You can still easily tell which line divides the inch in half, which lines divide the inch in fourths and which lines divide the inch into eights.
Still shorter lines divide the inch into sixteen (16) equal parts. Each part is one sixteenth inch (1/16”). Because of the different lengths of lines used you can still see the center line, the four parts, the eight parts, and now the sixteen parts that the inch has been divided into.
Essay
Explain why the division lines on the ruler are different lengths and why a ruler with many division markings might be more useful than a ruler with only a few markings.
______________________________________________
______________________________________________
______________________________________________
______________________________________________
Practical
1. Draw an X above the line that divides this inch in half.
2. Draw a circle on EACH of the lines that divide it into 4 parts.
3. Which line was used more than once?
4. Draw in the lines needed to divide the inch into 16 equal parts.
Practical – Measuring and Marking a line on a piece of wood
You will be practicing measuring a given distance from the end of a piece of wood and marking that distance accurately with a sharp #2 lead pencil. Either a ruler or a measuring tape can be used for this exercise.
Obtain a 10” long piece of 3/4” x 3/4” wood from your instructor. Write your name on one end. From the other end measure and mark each of the following distances using a sharp #2 pencil. Make all marks on the same side of the wood. (Fig. 11)
1/2”
1
1-1/2”
2
2-1/4”
3-3/4”
4-1/8”
4-5/8”
7-1/16”
8-7/16”
After you have marked all the points above, use a try square or a speed square as a guide to draw perpendicular lines across the face of the wood.
Ask your teacher to check your work for accuracy.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog 16
Measuring and Marking Out – Part 1
Knowing how to use a ruler is essential if you are going to make things in the woodshop. In my experience this is an area most students need practice. Years ago, when I began teaching 7th grade woodworking in a Twin Cities suburban public school, I assumed my students would have already learned about fractions and how to measure using a ruler. I assumed they would have learned this in the elementary grades or at least in their 7th grade math class. I soon found out this was not so.
In order to make things in the woodshop kids will need to know how to read a ruler. It is important you take time to work with your children on measuring skills.
In this blog I will show you the method I use to teach kids how to read a ruler and how to measure.
Measuring Tools
Two common measuring tools are the ruler (figure 1) and the tape measure (figure 2).
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Rulers are used to:
1.) See how long something is.
2.) To see how far apart two things are.
3.) To draw straight lines.
When you guide your pencil along the edge of a ruler to make a straight line you are doing what is called ruling. The word ruling means to draw (or rule) a straight line by using something with a straight edge to guide your pencil. A ruler works well to ruling straight lines, but just about anything with a straight edge can be used for ruling.
A ruler is sometimes called a rule. “I am going to use a 12” rule to measure the size of this piece of wood.”
Practical:
Use a ruler to measure how many inches long this line is.
Use a ruler to see how far apart these two lines are.
Rule a line from the tip of the arrowhead to the middle of the bull’s-eye.
Describe three things rulers can be used for.
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Tape Measure
The tape measure is sometimes called a measuring tape, a steel tape or a push-pull steel tape. Tape measures have a strip of metal with markings in inches or centimeters as well as their fractional parts. A tape measure is a type of ruler.
Tape measures are used to measure how long something is. Because the blade is somewhat flexible, tape measures are not used to rule straight lines.
A tape measure has a clip on the end of the metal tape. Place the clip over the end of the board you want to measure and pull on the case to unwind the steel tape. Use the lock to prevent the tape from winding back into the case. When you release the lock, a spring inside the case will pull the steel tape back into the case.
Safety Note
Never let the tape rewind too fast. The edges of the steel tape are sharp and could cut your fingers. The correct way is to release the lock only part way so the steel tape rewinds slowly. Never let the clip slam into the case. This can pinch your finger. It can also break off the clip!
Practical:
Obtain a tape measure and answer the questions and complete the practical exercises below:
What is the maximum length your tape measure will measure?__________________
With the lock in the unlocked position, pull the tape out about one foot. Press or slide the lock to keep the steel tape from going back into the case.
Now, while holding the end of the tape so it won’t slam back into the case, slowly release the lock so the tape will slowly go back into the case. Practice this several times.
Describe two reasons you should never let the measuring tape slam back into the case.
1.) __________________________________________________
2.) __________________________________________________
Find something you can measure such as a book or a desk top. Measure how high and how wide it is by hooking the clip over the edge and pulling on the case. Write down the height and width. ________
Try Square
The try square has two parts – the handle and the blade. The blade has markings in inches or centimeters.
The try square is a handy tool for testing wood to see if it is square (90 degrees). To test the end of a board to see if it is square, hold the handle against the edge of the board and slide the handle down until the blade touches the end of the board.
Hold the board and the try square up to the light. If you see light under part of the blade you will know the end of the board is not perfectly square.
The try square got its name because you can try the wood to see if it is square.
The try square is also used to draw lines at 90 degrees (or perpendicular) to an edge. In the illustration below the handle is held against the edge of the wood and a pencil line is drawn across the face of the wood.
Practical:
You will need a piece of wood, a lead pencil and a try square for this practical.
1.) Use a try square to test if the end of a board is square.
2.) Use a try square to draw a line perpendicular to the edge of a piece of wood.
Using Feet and Inches
Rulers and measuring tapes are divided up into equal parts with lines and numbers. Every 12 inches gives you one foot.
(12 inches = 1 foot) So…….
12 inches – 1 Foot
24 inches = 2 Feet
36 inches = 3 Feet
And so on…….
The most common type of ruler is the 12 inch or one foot ruler.
An inch is a certain distance which is always the same from one ruler to another. It is a standard (always the same – never different).
Words to know
Read the following words and their definitions and use the words in sentences until you are sure you know their meaning.
Abbreviate – A shortened form of a word or phrase. Some examples would be: U.S.A. for United States of America, CEO for Chief Executive Officer, TV for Television or Dr. for Doctor.
Symbol – An object or picture that stands for or represents something else. Some examples would be: The red target circles that stand for Target® stores or the drawing of the apple that stands for Apple® computers. In math, the symbol + means to add.
Practical:
Draw two examples of a symbol and tell what each one stands for. They can be symbols you have seen or symbols you make up yourself.
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
Abbreviations and Symbols
Read the following information about abbreviations and symbols and answer the questions.
Abbreviations are used to shorten words or phrases. For example, N.Y. for New York, or Mr. for Mister, or ASAP for As soon as possible.
Abbreviations can be used in measurement too. If we use ft. to mean foot or feet – and use in. to mean inch or inches, then instead of writing out 2 feet 6 inches, we can just write 2 ft. 6 in. They mean the same thing.
Abbreviations are useful when there is not enough space in which to write the dimensions or to save time by not having to write out the full word.
There is another type of abbreviation called a symbol. A symbol is a mark or picture that is used to show something. Here are two symbols used in measuring:
Foot = ’ Inch = ”
Example: (2 feet 6 inches) is the same as (2 ft. 6 in.) and the same as (2’ 6”)
You will see these symbols used on direction sheets and on drawings in the project plans used in the wood shop. Using these symbols saves both time and space.
Practical:
Using the symbols (’ and ”) write the following measurements:
Six feet nine inches________________
Sixteen feet two inches____________
Four feet three inches__________________
Thirty six inches______________
Use a ruler to measure the length of this line in inches. ________________________
How many inches long is this board?
How many inches apart are these two lines?
In my next blog - (Measuring and Marking Out - Part 2). I will include more information on using rulers and measuring tapes and provide exercises for children to practice measuring.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
Blog #15
Sandpaper and Sanding
Sanding is the process of using an abrasive to smooth a surface. Sandpaper is made in a factory by gluing hard abrasive particles to a heavy paper. The size of the particles varies from very fine particles to larger particles.
Sandpaper is sold by the grit size. There are many different sizes of grits. For general sanding of wood, begin with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper. This sandpaper has large particles and will smooth wood fast. This sandpaper is often referred to as coarse grit. Use coarse grit sandpaper to remove deep scratches and saw marks rapidly.
After you have removed the deep scratches and saw marks with coarse grit sandpaper, switch to 100 grit or 120 grit sandpaper to further smooth the wood. Sandpaper that is 100 grit or 120 grit is often referred to as fine sandpaper. Important: Never switch to fine grit sandpaper until you have first sanded out all the deep scratches with coarse grit sandpaper. The reason is because coarse grit sandpaper removes deep scratches faster. Trying to remove deep scratches using fine grit sandpaper could take a great deal of time.
Although very fine sandpaper such as 220 grit can be used to make the wood even smother, it is usually not necessary. The reason is that when you have finished sanding your wood with 100 grit sandpaper it will be smooth enough to apply wood finish. Very fine sandpaper such as 220 grit sandpaper can be used to sand the first coat of paint or varnish to prepare it for a final coat of finish.
Preparing a Sheet of Sandpaper
Sandpaper is sold in 9” x 11” sheets. These big sheets are too large to hold in your hand for most sanding, so it is best to tear the sandpaper into smaller pieces. Don’t use a scissors to cut the sandpaper because the hard particles of grit will dull the scissors. Instead, fold and tear the sandpaper as follows:
1.) Fold the sheet of sandpaper in half with the grit side facing in.
2.) Crease the fold with your fingers.
3.) Fold the sandpaper back in the opposite direction.
4.) Carefully tear the sandpaper in half.
5.) Fold one of the halves in half again.
6.) Crease the fold with your fingers as you did above.
7.) Fold in the opposite direction and tear apart. This will give you four pieces of sandpaper, each 4-1/2” x 5-1/2”.
Using a Sanding Block
To prevent the surface of the wood from rounding over while you are sanding, it is best to wrap the sandpaper around a block of wood. The block of wood will keep the sandpaper flat and make it easier for you to hold. This block of wood is called a sanding block.
Sanding the Face, Edge and End Grain
The drawing below shows the face, edge and end of a piece of wood. When sanding the face or edge of your wood, always sand in the same direction as the wood grain. Move the sandpaper back and forth over your wood as you press down on the sanding block. Lift it every few strokes and brush away the sawdust. When sanding the end grain, sand in one direction only. Lift the sandpaper up as you bring it back to the start of the next stroke. This will provide a smoother job.
Practical
1.) Ask your teacher for a sample block of wood. You will also need a 4-1/2” x 5-1/2” piece of both coarse and fine sandpaper, a sanding block and a pencil.
2.) Write your name legibly on the back of each piece of sandpaper.
3.) It is easiest if you hold the block of wood that you will be sanding in a vise. Sand both faces, both edges and both ends of your wood smooth. Starting with coarse grit sandpaper and finishing with fine grit sandpaper. Use both hands to hold the sanding block as you sand. The photos below show sanding the edge of a block of wood and the end of a block of wood.
4.) After you have finished sanding your block of wood, write your name on it and save it to use as a sanding block. Keep both pieces of sandpaper. You will be using the sanding block and the sandpaper for most of the projects you will be making in the wood shop.
Paul Meisel - paul@meiselwoodhobby.com
WOOD Online Blogger
Specialty: Woodworking with Children
Meisel Hardware Specialties
