10-30-2010 04:57 AM
Hi - I have a screened-in porch attached to my house with a shallow sloped roof on top. The underside of the roof i.e. the ceiling of the porch is unfinished. When you look up you see the rafters supporting the roof and the underside of the roof material.
I would like to add a ceiling and was thinking of using surplus oak hardwood flooring. The thing that scares me is that while the location of the ceiling is dry, it is definitely not a controlled climate. That porch is always at the same temperature and humidity as the outside weather. I live in North Carolina so I can just about count on the temperature swinging from 0F to 100F every year with humidity swings of 20% to 100%. I am afraid that will cause a tounge-and-groove hardwood ceiling to buckle and warp.
I do not like the look of 4 x 8 sheet products for the ceiling.
10-30-2010 06:08 AM
IMO, yours fears would be confirmed. They make cedar, pine and other materials for just that purpose. I will caution you NOT to buy the packaged stuff as most I've seen had too small a tongue and will separate with change of humidity. That stuff is more for an interior application and definitely for "over a substrate". You want an exterior grade T&G product, probably 3/4" thick. Great look and fun to do (as long as you aren't trying to make money doing it). Hope to see some pics when you get going on it.
10-30-2010 06:23 AM - edited 10-30-2010 06:33 AM
I wouldn't use flooring material. You could - but it seems like it would cost more. I don't know about movement, as it seems any boards you put up there will move - except paneling. Additionally, I would think I was upside down How about T&G red cedar? Or Pine? I just looked up at our old home's (recently bought) porch and it has painted beaded paneling with the beads every 1 1/2" or so. Use pine or cedar paneling - or what Russ said and use 3/4" T&G stuff.
Pray For our Country and Leadership - which is currently non-existent
10-30-2010 06:51 AM
The material of choice in years gone by was cedar car siding...ship-lap joints to take care of the expansion problem and "V" grooves (middle and edge) for decoration. Some also had a bead on the edge of the joint and one in the middle of the board...a 6" board would appear to be 2 - 3" boards.
10-30-2010 07:06 AM
10-30-2010 07:31 AM
Here's another vote for pine or cedar carsiding. Only differance being, is that I would get it v-grooved (or beaded) to break up the mass of the piece and I would also get it end matched.
10-30-2010 06:57 PM
Wainscotting was the stuff I've seen the most of on ceilings, but I've also seen T&G cedar too.
Is it regular oak flooring or a plastic/wood mix?
If your worried about the Tongues swelling and splitting the Groove out Why not just run it through the tablesaw and take the tongue down an 1/8th?
By the way, are you gonna use a flooring nailer to put it up or are you gonna just finish nail it through the surface?
10-30-2010 07:30 PM - edited 10-30-2010 07:31 PM
Let's back up a bit. First, insulate that ceiling, then add a vapor barrier. Then, you can add whatever ceiling material you like. Also, if you plan ahead a little, you can add either some lights, or even a ceiling fan fixture.
11-01-2010 09:15 AM
Sounds like pine or cedar siding is the way to go.
I plan to glue and nail the wood to the rafters - hopefully I can hide the nail heads which should not be hard to do if I use shiplap siding.
I understand why I would want to add a vapor barrier between the boards and the rafters (I plan to use roofing felt) but insulation also? It's for a screened in porch.
11-01-2010 09:31 AM