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11-23-2009 06:46 PM
I've been doing woodworking for a while, but I've always had trouble with leaving blade marks and burning the wood when I rip a boards on my tablesaw. I recent bought a Delta belt driven contractors saw that has plenty of power. I found when I was ripping red oak with saw I still get the burn marks. So, I assumed that the blade that came with the saw was not that great. So, I went to WoodCraft and bought a Forest WoodWorker II. I still have the same problem. I have checked and rechecked the alignment of the blade with the miter slots and I also double checked the alignment of the fence with the blade and the miter fence. As far as I can tell they are aligned properly. I have tried raising the blade higher and lower thinking that had something to do with it. I also have tried varying the feed rate and I still have the same problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
11-23-2009 06:58 PM
The blade and fence need to align with the miter slot witch apparently you have checked. How about the splitter if you are using it make sure it is aligned with the blade. The trunnions on the Delta contractor saw are a little on the weak side but usually will stay aligned till you put a lot of pressure on the feed or tilt the blade. It might just be the tension in the wood.
11-23-2009 07:51 PM
If you are getting heavier burn marks on one side of the kerf than the other, make sure the blade is perpendicular to the table. A battery operated tilt box is a real help here. They aren't too expensive.
A dial gage indicator will tell you if the blade is aligned with the mitre slots and the fence to the miter slots.
If you are getting burn marks on both sides, then make sure the splitter is aligned as already mentioned. Does it hold the kerf open long enough to clear the back of the blade?
Do you have the back of the fence set out from the blade just slightly as in .003 to .005
Do you get burn marks when you rip a thin strip off one side of the board?
A WWII is a full 1/8 blade. Have you tried a thin kerf blade
Is the belt tension correct, a hot slowing blade will burn the wood.
Do you get burn marks on everything you cut. As already mentioned some stock just gets possessed when the stress and tension is released from the rip. Some boards will just defy you, no matter what, because they can.
Just some thoughts of mine from my own past experiences for you to consider.
11-23-2009 07:57 PM
If your fence is absolutely dead-on parallel with the blade, try setting the far end of the fence away from the blade about 0.015 thousandths. This might eliminate the burning.
Then, there's the never ending opines about how high to set the blade.
I have 3 WW II blades and IMHO, they are the best.
Good enough.. Isn't.
11-23-2009 08:18 PM
Click for weather forecast
"The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run. And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"
11-23-2009 08:44 PM
Try cutting just 1 blade width on the saw with the just high enough to clear the top of the board. Have a freind push it through (one preferably that has done it before and knows what they're doing).
Watch the blade cutting the wood from the side and that may give you a hint as to what is causing the burning.
I did it right the first time!!!!
11-23-2009 11:30 PM - edited 11-23-2009 11:33 PM
I'd double check the alignment very carefully, make sure the splitter is also aligned, and be sure the fence face is straight. Be sure your insert is stiff and isn't flexing, and be sure the blade is clean. You'll get better results if the wood is flat and straight too, as opposed to twisted, warped, rocking, etc.
The Forrest WWII is an excellent general purpose blade, but is not necessarily the best choice for ripping thicker woods. It may have too many teeth for the task.... plus a WWII has very low side clearance so the blade polishes the edge of wood more than many blades, which can actually lead to more burning. If you're trying to rip over 1-1/2" or so, you may want to consider switching to a 24T bulk ripper, or even the 30T WWII. A faster feedrate should result in less burning, so a TK blade may be a better choice for you than a full kerf if the saw is bogging much.
11-24-2009 05:49 AM
I'm pretty much with Scott here. The keys are blade choice, blade maintenance, setup and feed rate.
I haven't seen anybody mention maintenance yet. Make sure your blade is clean. There are a lot of dedicate blade cleaners out there and sharpening services exist in a lot of places, including on line. I usually notice a real improvement when I take the time to clean my rippers.
And, yes, double check alignment as Scott mentions.
Feed rate will REALLY influence burning, too. Once you have the above complete, try some test pieces with varying feed rates.
11-24-2009 07:33 AM
Larry is right on. The blade cuts only at the leading edge, so trying to align the back of the blade with the fence just adds friction. Offset it as he recommends, and most of your problems are over. (We cannot, however, get your wife to increase your tool budget!)