- WOOD Community
- Announcements & Forum Help
- General Woodworking
- Tools and Tool Buying
- Info Sharing
- Finishing and Refinishing
- Shop Setup and Design
- Wood Turning
- Home Improvements
- Woodworking Software
- Top Shop Tips
- Free Classifieds
- Off Topic
- Woodworker Blogs
- Tom Iovino
- Kevin Koski
- Paul Meisel
- Steve Ramsey
- Matt Seiler
- Scott Spencer
- Truman Poker Table
11-29-2009 08:58 AM
I want to saw blocks of wood from small logs. I have a rigid table saw and wondered would it be safe to build some sort of sled to hold the log while getting 2 flat sides on the log then finish sawing with the fence. Has anyone used a table saw with small logs to cut lumber in this way. All of the logs I will saw are only 12 to 18 inches long and will be no more than about 10 inch diameter. Is there a better way to do this?
11-29-2009 09:33 AM
I have never done this type of operation so I can only ask questions for you to think about. Is the diameter of your table saw large enough to cut the log in one pass or will you need to flip the log over? Do you have a band saw? Will the log fit on the band saw?
11-29-2009 09:58 AM - edited 11-29-2009 10:00 AM
I would be hesitant to recommend this. There is almost no way to freehand on a table saw safely. A 10 inch log means the blade would have to be at least 6-8 inches above the table. Most 10" saws cut no more than 3.5-4" deep, not even enough to hit the center of a 10 inch log. Kickback is a real problem. Try a bandsaw or even a chain saw and guide to get a near flat side. Use a jointer to flatten and work from there.
Wood Online Forum Host
Specialty: Vintage Tools
11-29-2009 07:06 PM
Have not tried it yet, but I know there is a plan in American Woodworker magazine in the August 2000 issue for a sled for resawing logs on your band saw. I agree, you don't want to try it on your TS.
11-29-2009 07:23 PM
While it CAN be done, the tablesaw is not the tool to use.
First off, there's not enough depth to the blade.
Second, in order to get some good wood, the tree might need to be thicker (8-10 inch diameter), prohibiting cutting on the tablesaw.
I suggest going after thicker logs and using a chainsaw with a guide (alaskan sawmill or other) to slab it out.
Then cut into 1 inch boards with tablesaw ( really slows down feedrate on 4 inch or thicker "slabs).
Then run through jointer.
I just did some 150 yr old chestnut beams with the tablesaw and it took awhile but worth it.
I'm building a chainsaw guide teusday to slab a tree I dropped and will show pics.
I did it right the first time!!!!
11-30-2009 06:13 AM - edited 11-30-2009 06:18 AM
I HAVE cut some 6" "logs" on my table saw to glean some very interesting wood (russian olive - GRAPEFRUIT - orange tree - black locust - to name a few).
I ran the wood on a jointer or used a power plane to get one flat side THEN ran the second side through the jointer.
As you suggest, a sliding table or jig might work. IF the logs are thicker than your saw can cut in two passes I suggest this:
Make several passes at different depths until you reach full capacity. DON'T try to cut 3 1/2" in the first pass.
Rip the remaining UNCUT wood with either a HAND SAW (remember those?) or a band saw to split the wood.
You CAN get some interesting wood from firewood. I'd also suggest you split the log with an axe before you saw it AND start with longer pieces that you can control. Ripping 12" to 18" wood on a table saw allows it to easily catch in the blade and fly back at YOU!
I MUST add this safety "disclaimer" - you are right to assume its NOT safe. A 12" log on a 10" blade means at some point MOST of the log is in contact with said blade. While table saws are not the safest tools anyway, trying this with SHORT pieces can CAUSE you pain or worse, serious injury. The bottom line is if it doesn't FEEL safe it ISN'T safe.
12-29-2014 06:41 AM
Welcome to the Wood forums!
I know it was an old thread, but if you have an interest in sawing logs with a tablesaw, and want other people's opinions/suggestions, thank you for your post.
I have sawed some lilac wood on my TS, with good success. I think the secret to doing this with a good degree of safety is to attach the piece to some sort of carrier similar to what was shown in the video. The pieces that I cut were problably 18" in length and 2-3" diameter. I attached the lilac to a piece of plywood, set the fence to the width of the carrier, ripped the first side, then put the plywood against the fence (re-adjusted) and made the second 90 deegree cut.
As the Texas Wally said "if it doesn't feel good, don't do it!"