01-23-2011 02:45 AM
I use plywood scraps usually, I made a template out of hardboard and just cut a few when the pile gets low. I then use paper screw posts to make levelers.
01-23-2011 08:49 AM
Like Tony, I make mine from UHMW, brand name Delrin. Make mine from 3/8 thick stock, then drill and tap for 1/4 inch stainless set screws for levelers. Looks and works great. Some what costly, but last forever.
01-23-2011 07:14 PM
Mark - I really think phenolic is one of the best materials for inserts. As FireJohn suggests, you can use old blades to cut through it. It's very strong but can be easily machine. Steel is great too, but is harder to machine. The UHMW and HDPE insertsare easy to machine but tend to not be as strong and are more prone to flexing or warping. Wood is more prone to expension, contraction, and warping. Plywood would work ok, and possibly MDF if it's thick enough, but MDF isn't as strong as plywood, and plywood isnt' as strong as phenolic. A good stable insert is a critical component to a well tuned saw. If it flexes during use, or if the it doesn't sit flush, it'll upset the path of the workpiece and degrade the cut.
01-24-2011 12:23 AM
I use MDFwith laminate .. I use free drop sheets 26 x 50 x 3/4 from a friend's manufactureing retail store fixitures . " He generates about 500 at a time.. He sends " roll off dumpsters" to the dump to get rid of them. I rough out a blank cut it to 9/16 thick with the T/S Then run them through the planner to get 1/2" It beats paying about$20.00 each.
01-24-2011 02:57 AM
I have used everything from MDF to plywood to hardwood to uhmw. I've never used phonelic before. Generally whatever pieces of scrap that are suitable is what I use. I use the factory insert for a template with a router and pattern bit. I mount the factory insert upside and pinch a couple pieces of veneer between it and the material I'm routing for clearance and it's a perfect(almost)fit everytime. Sometimes a little touch up sanding is required to fine tune.