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Apprentice Visitor
tomwicks1
Posts: 1
Registered: 11-12-2009
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Linseed oil over varnish

WE recently purchased an antique walnut table and for some unknown reason my wife put boiled linseed oil on the table to help preserve its finish.  Now, however, the top is sticky to the touch.  How do I get the finish to not be so tacky to the touch without completely stipping the table?           TOM

Veteran Advisor
amateur60
Posts: 474
Registered: 10-24-2009
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Re: Linseed oil over varnish

The first thing to do, and do quickly,  is to use naphtha or mineral spirits try to remove the linseed oil before it fully cures.  Oil finishes are meant only to go over wood that isn't sealed by a film finish.  It's various linseed oil concoctions that have generated much of the dark, grimy surfaces on antique furniture.  Why such abuse should be venerated and preserved by such as the Bobsie twins on Antique Road Show is beyond me. 

Advisor
kmealy
Posts: 180
Registered: 10-26-2009
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Re: Linseed oil over varnish

The following is an excerpt of an article by Donald C. Williams
Senior Furniture Conservator, ConservationAnalytical
Laboratory at the Smithsonian Institution
 

However, the potential difficulty from using oils as polishes or cleaners is enormous. There are two basic types of oils with which we are concerned; drying oils and non-drying oils. The predicament you face is that regardless of which oil you have, there are serious problems. Non-drying oils tend to be the more benign, but there is the issue of an oil remaining liquid on (or in) the surface of any object. Dust and other airborne contaminants readily stick to wet surfaces, especially oils. At least these oils (paraffin, mineral, "lemon oil", which is usually mineral oil with colorants and perfumes added, etc.) don't really undergo chemical reactions or directly damage the furniture.


Drying oils, such as linseed, tung, or walnut oil, are a different matter altogether. These materials solidify, or "dry" through a process of chemical reaction with the air called oxidation. The drying process polymerizes the oil, making it increasingly intractable with time and more difficult to remove with cleaners or solvents. This is fine if oil is employed as the finish, but not good if it is used as a polish. By itself, having a polish which is difficult to remove would be irritating but not insurmountable. Unforunately, this is not the whole story. As drying oils age, they tend to become yellow or brown. Also, drying oils are chromogenic (they become colored) in the presence of acids. In this instance the oil adopts the dark, muddy brown/black opaque appearance so prevalent in antique furniture. Traditionally, cleaning/polishing concoctions were comprised of linseed oil, turpentine, beeswax, and vinegar (acetic acid). This cleaning/polishing method, used widely even in the museum field until recently, was and is a disaster waiting to happen. The results of this approach are readily apparent to even the casual observer; a thick incrustation of chocolate colored goo which is neither hard enough to be durable nor soft enough to wipe off easily. Thus, due to the polymerization of the oil as it dries and the reaction of the oil with acetic acid, the furniture is left with an unsightly coating which is very difficult to remove without damaging the surface of the object.

Contributor
Jimca
Posts: 13
Registered: 10-29-2009
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Re: Linseed oil over varnish

kmealy, I actually used the BLO/Turp/vinegar recently on an old roll top desk.  I thought it worked very well.  It cleaned the crud and seemed to bring life back to the finish.  I was going to strip and redo this desk but changed my mind after cleaning up the old finish.  Since the oil in this approach will turn to crud, what would you recommend to use on old/antique items to clean them up?  I distrust anything store bought due to the labeling or lack of accurate labeling.  I want to know what I'm using and why.

Sorry to steal the thread.

 

Jim

Veteran Advisor
amateur60
Posts: 474
Registered: 10-24-2009
0

Re: Linseed oil over varnish

Clear water, with about 2 drops of Dawn in a pint of water. Don't soak. Wipe dry.
Advisor
kmealy
Posts: 180
Registered: 10-26-2009
0

Re: Linseed oil over varnish

Yes, Dawn and water work well.  Follow or precede with naphtha if needed.

 

http://www.assoc-restorers.com/r-articles/saving_the_finish.html

 

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